Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
December 17-22, 2012
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After hearing about it for years, the time came to check out Vietnam!
We were fortunate to be able to get a taste of the climbing in Ha
Long Bay which was a highlight of our trip.
The way we decided to go about experiencing Vietnam was: first we spent
two days at Nam Cat resort (a small island about 20 minutes away by
boat), and then we did a 3-day boat tour with Cat Ba Ventures (one
of the major tour companies). This basically meant only 1 night in
Cat Ba at the very end, which completely avoided the crowds, but
we probably missed out on some of the main island attractions (and
climbing at Linh Minh valley). Trade offs.. :)
Nam Cat was an amazing secluded location - we were pretty speechless
when we first pulled up. From there, only a short 10 minute kayak
paddle away there was also a small beach with a few short climbs
(Moody Beach) - note, the place is small, you can do every route
there in < 2 hours... we enjoyed our time there climbing,
kayaking around and relaxing, but after 2 nights we were looking
forward to getting on the boat and venturing further out into the
bay. (As an aside, Tiger Beach is also nearby, but we got kicked off when trying
to climb there, as it's privately owned and you must purchase a
permit in advance.) Nam Cat was a good place to get over jetlag and enter
"vacation mode" without internet/phone distractions (in fact the
only electricity is provided by a small generator).
So after two nights on the island, we got picked up by our "junk"
boat (that is what they are really called!). When we saw a huge boat
approach the dock, we thought it must be a tour boat arriving for a
day at the resort. Turns out, it was for us! The boat was insanely
massive... way too much for 2 people, but we were not complaining!
The food was delicious and plentiful, and our guide, Victor, knew all
the climbing locations to take us. One word of warning about
Vietnam climbing: unlike Thailand, the local custom is to use
regular expansion bolts - the salt air environment corrodes them
within a few years, making them unsafe. High caution is needed
there... (there is a local book and information available at Asia
Outdoors in town). The climbing was quite good as far as limestone
sport climbing goes... though there isn't a ton of it (the total #
of routes in the Bay is in the hundreds at most, and they are very
spread out). The deep water soloing is where Vietnam really shines -
we did try it out, but it was a bit too scary and logistically
complicated (once our shoes got wet it was really hard to climb; and
using the kayaks to access the rock was tricky). If you were really
planning to maximize the DWS potential, renting a basket boat and
bringing 10 pairs of shoes would make sense!
Our approximate itinerary:
- Day 1 and 2: Nam Cat (Moody beach climbing / kayaking)
- Day 3: Ha Long Bay tour day 1. Two unknown beaches, one of them with sketchy bolts (at high tide the waves splash the first bolt, no joke!) Bamboo stick clip required.
- Day 4: Ha Long Bay day 2. The Face (7b sport climb), deep water soloing, kayaking to temple / through caves
- Day 5: Ha Long Bay day 3. Tiger Beach and surrounding climbs (Pirate's Belly, etc?). Got permit finally (but drama). Return to Cat Ba.
Of course even ignoring the climbing, Ha Long Bay is completely
amazing - thousands of limestone islands spread throughout (3 hours
by boat to get to the outer ones), with noone around except for
small fishing villages... what a place! We were really amazed at
how many of the local fishermen live.. essentially floating houses
on styrofoam (do not ask about hygiene).
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Moody Beach where we spent the afternoon |
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The steep roof! |
Melissa leading the route on the left of the beach |
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Beautiful view from the top of the climbs |
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Day 1 of our cruise - started off a bit foggy |
Huge boat.. |
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Our boat as seen from the first beach we climbed on |
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The only route on this beach (6b) |
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Victor loved to tilt the camera :) |
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The beach contains a little temple |
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Beautiful solitude in Ha Long Bay... |
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This pillar has a bolted route on it (but the bolts are rusted out) |
We paddled into this quiet bay hoping to find some monkeys.. |
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Stick clip successful |
Batmanned up the rope |
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Trying not to swing into the ocean.. |
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We got some visitors for a bit |
Toproping another climb off the same anchor |
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Victor belaying me. Note the long stick clip aka fishing rod necessary! |
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Polish Tower, has some loose 5.9 route on gear supposedly |
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Looking up at the routes. 7b and 7b+ |
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Racking up |
Starting up The Face, 7b |
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This fishing boat pulled up next to us to watch |
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Victor kept telling us to high-five.. we obliged |
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Puppy on the boat, cute overload! |
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Floating away from the face |
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Fishing village |
Starting up first deep water solo |
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There is DWS here too.. |
Paddling through a crazy cave |
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The temple has inhabitants! |
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Reminded me of someone I knew.. |
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Victor about to help us pull our boat onto the rock to climb a couple of routes above |
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Looking back at Tiger Beach (where we were kicked out at first) |
Lan Ha Bay |
Looking down at our boats |
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Lunch time |
Tiger Beach climbing |
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Toproping a diagonal 7b |
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7a? on the left |
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This is a giant 20ft stalactite hanging down - cool! |
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Cool pitch out of the cave |
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Morning in Cat Ba, the day that we left |
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