Frey, Argentina
December 24-26, 2013
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Previous: Cochamo

After an awesome few days climbing in Cochamo, we made our way to Bariloche, Argentina. We were hoping to spend a few days relaxing there before hiking into the Frey for more climbing. However, we arrived to perfect blue-bird weather with no wind, about as good as it gets. And it was forecast to change in 2 days (forecast 60+mph winds after), so we decided to hurry!

We pigged out with a big meat dinner in town, and the next day purchased airline tickets to El Calafate later that week, exchanged money, etc. before taking the bus to Cerro Catedral, and beginning the hike. The afternoon heat and horseflies (tabanos) were absolutely brutal, especially under the weight of backpacks full of climbing and camping gear - but we survived. Eventually we crested over the final hill and the view of the jagged peaks was mind blowing!!!

The next day was the last good weather day in the forecast, so we decided to head to the tallest and most famous peak in the area, Torre Principal. Due to some confusion and unfamiliarity with the approach, it took us 3 hours to get to the base. With our 10am start that morning, this meant that our original hope to climb one of the harder routes on the other side would have to be put on hold... we 'settled' for the normal route, which is 5-6 pitches with the hardest being 5.10b or so. The climbing wasn't as good as Cochamo, quality-wise, but the views and setting were absolutely spectacular! We were in heaven... and to make it even cooler, we were suddenly surrounded by 4 giant condors that flew around us for over half an hour, curious to check us out. The pitches went quickly and we soon stood on top of the spectacular summit - wow, what a place! After a brief snafu with a stuck rope, we made it down to the base and made it back to camp in time for a Christmas Eve dinner prepared by the camp hosts (they grilled meat outside all day!) The atmosphere was festive and we met several interesting characters, including Joe from Santa Cruz who I had met in Yosemite!!

We chose to spend the next day (Christmas Day) in camp relaxing and eating... as forecast, it got really windy and even rained for a couple of hours, which made it even more cozy to hang out.

The third day was our last there (again, packed schedule!) - we climbed Aguja Frey in the morning and then hiked out to Bariloche to hot showers and more amazing meats!

Next: El Chalten

  Bariloche is on a beautiful lake, surrounded by mountains, really reminding us of Tahoe!  
  Bariloche is on a beautiful lake, surrounded by mountains, really reminding us of Tahoe!

  Bariloche is famous for chocolate and ice cream... we made sure to appreciate them both ice cream with ice cream t-shirt! Stocking up for climbing  
  Bariloche is famous for chocolate and ice cream... we made sure to appreciate them both ice cream with ice cream t-shirt! Stocking up for climbing

  A pre-climbing meal, Argentina style! Beginning the hike to Refugio Frey on a very hot afternoon - already wishing it would be over!  
  A pre-climbing meal, Argentina style! Beginning the hike to Refugio Frey on a very hot afternoon - already wishing it would be over!

  Cerro Catedral ski resort The refugio with Aguja Frey in the background (has some decent climbing, and right in camp..)  
  Cerro Catedral ski resort The refugio with Aguja Frey in the background (has some decent climbing, and right in camp..)

  The refugio is awesome! Our home for 4 days The highest peak is Refugio Principal, which we climbed that day  
  The refugio is awesome! Our home for 4 days The highest peak is Refugio Principal, which we climbed that day

  Torre Principal The approach to Torre Principal.. not the most pleasant of approaches  
  Torre Principal The approach to Torre Principal.. not the most pleasant of approaches

  This condor was trying to get a piece of me.. The condors are cool birds!  
  This condor was trying to get a piece of me.. The condors are cool birds!

   
 

  The hut/our tent is next to the little lake on the left. Bariloche far in the background  
  The hut/our tent is next to the little lake on the left. Bariloche far in the background

  Found a little oasis / stream of nice water on the approach :)  
  Found a little oasis / stream of nice water on the approach :)

  The 3rd pitch on Torre Principal  
  The 3rd pitch on Torre Principal

  Past the crux. Scoping out the 4th pitch, which was a bit tricky With a view like this, can't complain..  
  Past the crux. Scoping out the 4th pitch, which was a bit tricky With a view like this, can't complain..

  Exiting the chimney into a short offwidth  
  Exiting the chimney into a short offwidth

   
 

  Nice belay perch Looking down the 4th pitch  
  Nice belay perch Looking down the 4th pitch

  The last pitch to the top of Torre Principal. The technical crux (6b face), but very well protected On the summit of Torre Principal Looking into Chile from the summit  
  The last pitch to the top of Torre Principal. The technical crux (6b face), but very well protected On the summit of Torre Principal Looking into Chile from the summit

  The lower / other summit  
  The lower / other summit

   
 

   
 

  Now 2 condors on a perch!  
  Now 2 condors on a perch!

  We went a different way on the way down, and it was much worse and time consuming..  
  We went a different way on the way down, and it was much worse and time consuming..

  :) A couple of guys on Aguja Frey  
  :) A couple of guys on Aguja Frey

  Xmas feast at the refugio! The hut was a festive place! Santa!  
  Xmas feast at the refugio! The hut was a festive place! Santa!

  Papa Noels! Happy not to be climbing today. It was cloudy, windy, and started raining..  
  Papa Noels! Happy not to be climbing today. It was cloudy, windy, and started raining..

  Breakfast on the front porch  
  Breakfast on the front porch

  Xmas chocolates!  
  Xmas chocolates!

  Starting up some climb on Aguja Frey (right by camp) on our last day  
  Starting up some climb on Aguja Frey (right by camp) on our last day

  Melissa coming up Aguja Frey  
  Melissa coming up Aguja Frey

  Topping out Super windy and freezing cold on the summit! The waves on the lake are picking up! (by the afternoon they were splashing and the water was hitting the refugio!)  
  Topping out Super windy and freezing cold on the summit! The waves on the lake are picking up! (by the afternoon they were splashing and the water was hitting the refugio!)

  Rappelling in the wind was the crux, took as long as climbing the route..  
  Rappelling in the wind was the crux, took as long as climbing the route..

  One of my gloves blew away in the wind - that's what rappelling with one glove does :-) Goodbye, Frey, we'll miss you!  
  One of my gloves blew away in the wind - that's what rappelling with one glove does :-) Goodbye, Frey, we'll miss you!

   
 

  Bariloche is beautiful!  
  Bariloche is beautiful!

  Torre Principal can be seen here Arriving in El Calafate. Desolate place...  
  Torre Principal can be seen here Arriving in El Calafate. Desolate place...

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