Frey, Argentina
December 24-26, 2013
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Previous: Cochamo
After an awesome few days climbing in Cochamo, we made our way to
Bariloche, Argentina. We were hoping to spend a few days relaxing there
before hiking into the Frey for more climbing. However, we arrived to
perfect blue-bird weather with no wind, about as good as it gets. And
it was forecast to change in 2 days (forecast 60+mph winds after), so
we decided to hurry!
We pigged out with a big meat dinner in town, and the next day purchased
airline tickets to El Calafate later that week, exchanged money, etc.
before taking the bus to Cerro Catedral, and beginning the hike. The
afternoon heat and horseflies (tabanos) were absolutely brutal,
especially under the weight of backpacks full of climbing and
camping gear - but we survived. Eventually we crested over the final
hill and the view of the jagged peaks was mind blowing!!!
The next day was the last good weather day in the forecast, so we
decided to head to the tallest and most famous peak in the area, Torre
Principal. Due to some confusion and unfamiliarity with the approach,
it took us 3 hours to get to the base. With our 10am start that morning,
this meant that our original hope to climb one of the harder routes on
the other side would have to be put on hold... we 'settled' for the
normal route, which is 5-6 pitches with the hardest being 5.10b or so.
The climbing wasn't as good as Cochamo, quality-wise, but the views and
setting were absolutely spectacular! We were in heaven... and to make
it even cooler, we were suddenly surrounded by 4 giant condors that
flew around us for over half an hour, curious to check us out. The
pitches went quickly and we soon stood on top of the spectacular summit
- wow, what a place! After a brief snafu with a stuck rope, we made it
down to the base and made it back to camp in time for a Christmas Eve
dinner prepared by the camp hosts (they grilled meat outside all day!)
The atmosphere was festive and we met several interesting characters,
including Joe from Santa Cruz who I had met in Yosemite!!
We chose to spend the next day (Christmas Day) in camp relaxing and
eating... as forecast, it got really windy and even rained for a couple
of hours, which made it even more cozy to hang out.
The third day was our last there (again, packed schedule!) - we climbed
Aguja Frey in the morning and then hiked out to Bariloche to hot
showers and more amazing meats!
Next: El Chalten
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Bariloche is on a beautiful lake, surrounded by mountains, really reminding us of Tahoe! |
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Bariloche is famous for chocolate and ice cream... we made sure to appreciate them both |
ice cream with ice cream t-shirt! |
Stocking up for climbing |
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A pre-climbing meal, Argentina style! |
Beginning the hike to Refugio Frey on a very hot afternoon - already wishing it would be over! |
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Cerro Catedral ski resort |
The refugio with Aguja Frey in the background (has some decent climbing, and right in camp..) |
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The refugio is awesome! |
Our home for 4 days |
The highest peak is Refugio Principal, which we climbed that day |
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Torre Principal |
The approach to Torre Principal.. not the most pleasant of approaches |
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This condor was trying to get a piece of me.. |
The condors are cool birds! |
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The hut/our tent is next to the little lake on the left. Bariloche far in the background |
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Found a little oasis / stream of nice water on the approach :) |
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The 3rd pitch on Torre Principal |
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Past the crux. |
Scoping out the 4th pitch, which was a bit tricky |
With a view like this, can't complain.. |
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Exiting the chimney into a short offwidth |
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Nice belay perch |
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Looking down the 4th pitch |
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The last pitch to the top of Torre Principal. The technical crux (6b face), but very well protected |
On the summit of Torre Principal |
Looking into Chile from the summit |
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Now 2 condors on a perch! |
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We went a different way on the way down, and it was much worse and time consuming.. |
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:) |
A couple of guys on Aguja Frey |
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Xmas feast at the refugio! |
The hut was a festive place! |
Santa! |
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Papa Noels! |
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Happy not to be climbing today. It was cloudy, windy, and started raining.. |
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Breakfast on the front porch |
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Starting up some climb on Aguja Frey (right by camp) on our last day |
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Melissa coming up Aguja Frey |
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Topping out |
Super windy and freezing cold on the summit! |
The waves on the lake are picking up! (by the afternoon they were splashing and the water was hitting the refugio!) |
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Rappelling in the wind was the crux, took as long as climbing the route.. |
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One of my gloves blew away in the wind - that's what rappelling with one glove does :-) |
Goodbye, Frey, we'll miss you! |
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Torre Principal can be seen here |
Arriving in El Calafate. Desolate place... |
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