Red Rocks
November 27, 2011
Thanksgiving trip report

We planned on go to Red Rocks on Sunday before flying back to SFO. Expecting everything to be crowded (being a holiday weekend at one of the most popular climbing locations this time of year), Dow recommended Spectrum. The unappealing bits of Spectrum were the first pitch chimney followed by a horizontal face traverse on the second pitch... but the guidebook described a direct start, at 5.10d, which it said is "the best way to do the climb". It took a few minutes to figure out where the direct start actually starts, and then we geared up, and I started climbing up. The start is completely overhanging however, with very poor rock that is falling apart... and there is no pro. I thought my height could help me reach up and place a cam before the 10d moves came, but after trying several times, I couldn't commit to the last move (there is a big ledge waiting below)... Long story short, we bailed. We considered doing the standard start, but after wasting all this time, I wasn't feeling it (past noon, 3-4 hours of daylight left, and 7 pitches) Instead we went across the valley to climb Y2K, a climb that I wanted to climb from my prior visits years ago. The first pitch was super fun, but the next 3 pitches were just OK. Still, it felt worthwhile, and we were happy to end the trip on a good note!

  Entering Red Rocks! Looking up at Spectrum Me underneath the direct start which I attempted. It's a huge overhang!  
  Entering Red Rocks! Looking up at Spectrum Me underneath the direct start which I attempted. It's a huge overhang!

  Yikes. I made one more move but kept downclimbing and couldn't commit (big fall to a ledge below) So we went across the gully and had a chill day on Y2K  
  Yikes. I made one more move but kept downclimbing and couldn't commit (big fall to a ledge below) So we went across the gully and had a chill day on Y2K

  First pitch of Y2K, pretty easy featured face with a 1-move crux roof higher up  
  First pitch of Y2K, pretty easy featured face with a 1-move crux roof higher up

  Starting up the 2nd pitch Looking down the 4th pitch, mostly easy with 5.9 moves at the end  
  Starting up the 2nd pitch Looking down the 4th pitch, mostly easy with 5.9 moves at the end

  Nearing the top of the 2nd pitch The traverse, pretty easy  
  Nearing the top of the 2nd pitch The traverse, pretty easy

  Last pitch Y2K approximately Back at the parking lot, cool sunset  
  Last pitch Y2K approximately Back at the parking lot, cool sunset

   
 

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