Mt Assiniboine
North Ridge (II, 5.5)
July 27-29, 2007

Having first stared at the peak from up close in 2003, I immediately knew I wanted to go back and do it one day. As the highest peak in the Southern Rockies, it is also identifiable from just about all of the other high Rockies peaks as a prominent peak on the horizon. The north ridge is the normal route and is mostly scrambling, with a few small sections of easy climbing on the upper part of the ridge. In the dry conditions we had, it is a straightforward undertaking... however, it is dry for only a short period of time in the middle of summer. Otherwise, snow and ice can make for a treacherous day, as witnessed by the many old rappel stations and crampon scratch marks all over the lower slabs. The descent is also tedious, as one must reverse their way down the loose rock ridge/face.

This chance to do it came as a surprise, as Hedd-wyn called me last minute to accompany him and his daughter Caitlin. She had done rock climbing, but had no alpine experience, so we belayed some of the upper part of the ridge, with some short roping. We wore tshirts all the way to the summit, which was incredible... the only thing obscuring our views was the forest fire smoke that had rolled in from the US. After a leisurely hour at the summit, we couldn't postpone our descent further and begun carefully making our way down. The descent took us longer than the ascent due to the loose nature of the rock, but we had nowhere to rush. Caitlin proved strong as she had no trouble with the exposure, it being so new to her. Happy to be back down, we ate dinner and played cards before rolling into bed early for a good night's sleep. The next day we made our way down to Assiniboine Lodge at Lake Magog and took a helicopter out. I felt pretty spoiled taking a helicopter to get there, but I couldn't turn down Hedd-wyn's offer. Having also done the full circuit hike in 2003, I knew it was... well, less than pleasant.

  Caitlin and Hedd-wyn chilling while we wait for the helicopter our helicopter that took us to Lake Magog a strange beetle in the parking lot  
  Caitlin and Hedd-wyn chilling while we wait for the helicopter our helicopter that took us to Lake Magog a strange beetle in the parking lot

  neat aerial views a glimpse of Assiniboine's East Face with our route being the right skyline Assiniboine's East Face  
  neat aerial views a glimpse of Assiniboine's East Face with our route being the right skyline Assiniboine's East Face

  Hedd-wyn and Caitlin enjoying the helicopter ride. So much better than slogging up Bryant creek! we got uncomfortably close to these walls  
  Hedd-wyn and Caitlin enjoying the helicopter ride. So much better than slogging up Bryant creek! we got uncomfortably close to these walls

  just landed in the meadow! Assiniboine seen from helicopter pad Assiniboine seen from Lake Magog where we enjoyed lunch  
  just landed in the meadow! Assiniboine seen from helicopter pad Assiniboine seen from Lake Magog where we enjoyed lunch

  me enjoying lunch at the lake ok.. time to start hiking the Gmoser Highway approach  
  me enjoying lunch at the lake ok.. time to start hiking the Gmoser Highway approach

  Lake Magog seen from Gmoser Highway Caitlin enjoying the easy trail before getting into the headwall How do we get across this? Carefully...  
  Lake Magog seen from Gmoser Highway Caitlin enjoying the easy trail before getting into the headwall How do we get across this? Carefully...

  Caitlin enjoying the exposure Walk slowly and carefully... negotiating a small patch of snow  
  Caitlin enjoying the exposure Walk slowly and carefully... negotiating a small patch of snow

  ancient rap station have to scramble through this  
  ancient rap station have to scramble through this

  ok.. still a while to go  
  ok.. still a while to go

  crossing the waterfall Caitlin thinking  
  crossing the waterfall Caitlin thinking "Do I have to get wet?"

  small cliff band last obstacle on the headwall!  
  small cliff band last obstacle on the headwall!

  a closer view of our objective going up the snow slope toward the Hind Hut  
  a closer view of our objective going up the snow slope toward the Hind Hut

  Hedd-wyn slogging up the Hind Hut Mt Assiniboine  
  Hedd-wyn slogging up the Hind Hut Mt Assiniboine

  Mt Stewart? Mt Assiniboine with the Hind Hut in the foreground me posing with Assiniboine in the background  
  Mt Stewart? Mt Assiniboine with the Hind Hut in the foreground me posing with Assiniboine in the background

  the world class shitter next to the hut can't get enough of it  
  the world class shitter next to the hut can't get enough of it

  sunset sunrise on the base of the route, with lots of smoke in the air making it pretty smokey sunrise  
  sunset sunrise on the base of the route, with lots of smoke in the air making it pretty smokey sunrise

  most of the ridge is low angle a guided party scrambling ahead of us Caitlin enjoying the sunrise  
  most of the ridge is low angle a guided party scrambling ahead of us Caitlin enjoying the sunrise

  early morning views Smoke!  
  early morning views Smoke!

  small food break the 3 of us on the enjoyable upper ridge Larry Stanier and Lila (sp?) with their group  
  small food break the 3 of us on the enjoyable upper ridge Larry Stanier and Lila (sp?) with their group

  We let Larry go ahead steep scrambling the spectacular drop down the East Face  
  We let Larry go ahead steep scrambling the spectacular drop down the East Face

  the ridge steepens Me leading on the ridge on the ridge  
  the ridge steepens Me leading on the ridge on the ridge

  Caitlin and Hedd-wyn climbing with the spectacular glacier and Lake Magog Nice position on the ridge  
  Caitlin and Hedd-wyn climbing with the spectacular glacier and Lake Magog Nice position on the ridge

  the East Face traversing to the higher south summit the last steep portion of the ridge  
  the East Face traversing to the higher south summit the last steep portion of the ridge

  almost at the top summit shot aww  
  almost at the top summit shot aww

   
 

  big group on the summit the drop down the East Face  
  big group on the summit the drop down the East Face

  enough chilling out, time to go down! rappelling a step in the ridge me doing a sitting belay behind a block  
  enough chilling out, time to go down! rappelling a step in the ridge me doing a sitting belay behind a block

  Descending the ridge with Lake Magog in the background  
  Descending the ridge with Lake Magog in the background

  Caitlin going down the Gmoser Highway on the following day  
  Caitlin going down the Gmoser Highway on the following day

  Lake Magog again... almost down! Last view of it before we leave!  
  Lake Magog again... almost down! Last view of it before we leave!

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