Mt Assiniboine
North Ridge (II, 5.5)
July 27-29, 2007
Having first stared at the peak from up close in 2003, I immediately knew I
wanted to go back and do it one day. As the highest peak in the Southern
Rockies, it is also identifiable from just about all of the other high
Rockies peaks as a prominent peak on the horizon. The north ridge is the
normal route and is mostly scrambling, with a few small sections of easy
climbing on the upper part of the ridge. In the dry conditions we had, it
is a straightforward undertaking... however, it is dry for only a short
period of time in the middle of summer. Otherwise, snow and ice can make
for a treacherous day, as witnessed by the many old rappel stations and
crampon scratch marks all over the lower slabs. The descent is also
tedious, as one must reverse their way down the loose rock ridge/face.
This chance to do it came as a surprise, as Hedd-wyn called me last minute
to accompany him and his daughter Caitlin. She had done rock climbing, but
had no alpine experience, so we belayed some of the upper part of the
ridge, with some short roping. We wore tshirts all the way to the summit,
which was incredible... the only thing obscuring our views was the forest
fire smoke that had rolled in from the US. After a leisurely hour at the
summit, we couldn't postpone our descent further and begun carefully making
our way down. The descent took us longer than the ascent due to the loose
nature of the rock, but we had nowhere to rush. Caitlin proved strong as
she had no trouble with the exposure, it being so new to her. Happy to be
back down, we ate dinner and played cards before rolling into bed early for
a good night's sleep. The next day we made our way down to Assiniboine Lodge
at Lake Magog and took a helicopter out. I felt pretty spoiled taking a
helicopter to get there, but I couldn't turn down Hedd-wyn's offer. Having
also done the full circuit hike in 2003, I knew it was... well, less than
pleasant.
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Caitlin and Hedd-wyn chilling while we wait for the helicopter |
our helicopter that took us to Lake Magog |
a strange beetle in the parking lot |
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neat aerial views |
a glimpse of Assiniboine's East Face with our route being the right skyline |
Assiniboine's East Face |
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Hedd-wyn and Caitlin enjoying the helicopter ride. So much better than slogging up Bryant creek! |
we got uncomfortably close to these walls |
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just landed in the meadow! |
Assiniboine seen from helicopter pad |
Assiniboine seen from Lake Magog where we enjoyed lunch |
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me enjoying lunch at the lake |
ok.. time to start hiking |
the Gmoser Highway approach |
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Lake Magog seen from Gmoser Highway |
Caitlin enjoying the easy trail before getting into the headwall |
How do we get across this? Carefully... |
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Caitlin enjoying the exposure |
Walk slowly and carefully... |
negotiating a small patch of snow |
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ancient rap station |
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have to scramble through this |
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crossing the waterfall |
Caitlin thinking "Do I have to get wet?" |
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small cliff band |
last obstacle on the headwall! |
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a closer view of our objective |
going up the snow slope toward the Hind Hut |
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Hedd-wyn slogging up |
the Hind Hut |
Mt Assiniboine |
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Mt Stewart? |
Mt Assiniboine with the Hind Hut in the foreground |
me posing with Assiniboine in the background |
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the world class shitter next to the hut |
can't get enough of it |
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sunset |
sunrise on the base of the route, with lots of smoke in the air making it pretty |
smokey sunrise |
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most of the ridge is low angle |
a guided party scrambling ahead of us |
Caitlin enjoying the sunrise |
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early morning views |
Smoke! |
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small food break |
the 3 of us on the enjoyable upper ridge |
Larry Stanier and Lila (sp?) with their group |
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We let Larry go ahead |
steep scrambling |
the spectacular drop down the East Face |
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the ridge steepens |
Me leading on the ridge |
on the ridge |
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Caitlin and Hedd-wyn climbing with the spectacular glacier and Lake Magog |
Nice position on the ridge |
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the East Face |
traversing to the higher south summit |
the last steep portion of the ridge |
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almost at the top |
summit shot |
aww |
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big group on the summit |
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the drop down the East Face |
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enough chilling out, time to go down! |
rappelling a step in the ridge |
me doing a sitting belay behind a block |
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Descending the ridge with Lake Magog in the background |
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Caitlin going down the Gmoser Highway on the following day |
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Lake Magog again... almost down! |
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Last view of it before we leave! |
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