Bugaboos climbing 2006
August 24-27, 2006

A good weather system was supposed to move in from the coast, so we decided to go for the Bugaboos, famous for questionable weather. The characters: Peter, Dow, Chuck. During the hike in, we were being poured on, and we passed several grumpy parties in the process of hiking out. Once at the hut, the local forecast predicted 70-80% chance of rain for the next 4 days - I was appalled - are these forecasts I was checking totally useless? As it turned out, the weather improved the following day, and gorgeous weather arrived.

Thursday: McTech Arete (5.10, 6p)

Friday: Bugaboo Spire, NE ridge (IV, 5.8, 12p)

Saturday: Pigeon Spire, West Ridge (II, 5.4)

  Every car is turned into a fort. A row of chicken wire-guarded cars  

  Snowpatch spire with the roof of the hut slightly visible.  Pouring rain on us... Badass glacier.  

  hiking up to the hut Nice rainbow  

  The Conrad Kain hut - a nice escape from the rain! the hut again  


  Applebee campground Snowpatch Spire  


  Snowpatch Spire with the Crestent Glacier Snowpatch and Pigeon (right)  

  Bugaboo Spire Snowpatch (left) and Pigeon Spire (right) climbers on McTech Arete (5.10-)  

  pulling the roof move Another view of Bugaboo Spire over the roof  

  second pitch of McTech Climbers on Paddle Flake (5.10b) Climbers on Paddle Flake (5.10b)  

  Climber leading the last pitch of Paddle Flake (5.10b), Crescent Spire Climber leading the last pitch of Paddle Flake (5.10b), Crescent Spire Climber on Paddle Flake  

  Climber topping out on Paddle Flake (5.10b), Crescent Spire Climbers walking along the ridge of Crescent Spire  

  me posing with Bugaboo Spire in the background  

  Snowpatch (left) and Pigeon (right)  

  Sunrise above Crescent Spire Sunrise above Crescent Spire The start of Bugaboo Spire  

  A line-up to start at the base of Bugaboo Spire.  It's cold!  

  Me chilling with Snowpatch behind, photo by Dow Williams Me leading on the NE ridge, photo by Dow Williams Me belaying at the base of the 5th pitch  

  Me belaying at the base of the 5th pitch Dow geared up to go  


  spectacular views  


  it's warming up... close to the north summit  

  weren't supposed to go this way, but... :)  

  Dow checking out the exposure  

  traversing the very exposed ridge  

  downclimbing a section of the ridge climbing back up to the summit  

  The Howsers Snowpatch and other beauties Pigeon on the left, with the Howsers on the right  

  Snowpatch and Pigeon from the south summit of Bugaboo Spire.  

  Me starting the first rappel down the Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire. Photo by Dow Williams  

  One of the rappels on the Kain Route  

  Another shot of the gorgeous view... can't get enough! Snowpatch Spire  

  Down from the col! nearing the glacier quite a mean-looking glacier!  

  Dow with some crevasses showing A view of Pigeon from the other side Making progress on the glacier... beautiful surroundings!  

  The Snowpatch/Pigeon icefall The icefall, with Bugaboo Spire in view directly behind Dow with Snowpatch behind him  

  A very large (15m wide) crevasse Dow and me about to cross the big crevasse  

  large! Dow nearing the start of Pigeon's ridge  

  Pigeon's ridge! The Howsers again  

  me scrambling along Pigeon's W ridge Dow scrambling along the ridge  

  Dow not bothered by the exposure Me with the Howsers in the background another shot of me with the Howsers in the background, photo by Dow  

  Looks steep ahead - but it's 4th class. Dow scrambling  

  The summit with someone on top me scrambling along the ridge with the Howsers in the background, photo by Dow Williams  

  The Howsers again  

  Dow on one of the Pigeon summits The Howsers again  

  Dow on the other summit Me on the summit of Pigeon, photo by Dow looking back at the ridge  

  crossing one of the big crevasses on the way back - check out the weak snow bridge!  

  Dow with the Kain Hut behind him, about to leave. Hiking out from the hut on sunday... sad to leave in such nice weather, but we had to!  




Previous Page