Cardinal Pinnacle
August 24-25, 2013
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A weekend at this gem of Sierra granite - Cardinal Pinnacle near Bishop!
Smoke from the Rim Fire (with north-east path of the smoke due to wind)
drove us south down 395... smoke was pretty bad until around Lee Vining,
and quite clear towards Mammoth Lakes/Bishop!
On Saturday, we climbed
Crack Kingdom, a link up of routes on the left
side of Cardinal Pinnacle. On the way down we toproped The Prow - wow,
that thing is as amazing as it seems on pictures! The initial "boulder
problem" crux doesn't appear to have gear nearby, made me wonder how
exactly people lead this thing. The 5.12 crack is, in comparison,
straightforward (but very hard!) We finished off with V8 Crack, which
is also a 5-star splitter. I found the beginning quite hard and barely
scraped by without falling, but green camalots are my nemesis crack size.
On Sunday we went back there and did the West Face, which is quite
amazing in its own right (and also snuck in the crux pitch of
Cucumbers). We left early as we had a long drive home, with a quick
stop at the Whoa Nellie for a delicious dinner. The smoke was quite
bad around Coleville/Walker, but cleared completely once we hit Tahoe.
The winds are constantly shifting and directing smoke as they please..
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The truck at 9,300' - the parking spot for Cardinal Pinnacle |
I hope you like talus, because there is tons of it! |
There was a little smoke blowing over the mountains - but nothing compared to around Lee Vining/further north |
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Sharp Sierra granite - sweet |
Looking down from the base of the climb. It only takes 15-20 mins to go up the talus, but it's not the most pleasant! |
Getting ready at the base - it was pretty chilly in the shade |
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V8 crack splits this wall.. amazing (we did it at the end of the day) |
Karen on pitch 2 of Crack Kingdom |
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Short offwidth on pitch 2 of Crack Kingdom. Turns out the offwidth is fairly easy - the crux is the flaring bulge above (very awkward!) |
About to enter the 'battle of the flare' (5.10b) |
The amazing pitch 3 of Crack Kingdom - 5.10c |
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The roof on the right is super fun. Airy 5.10 with good holds! And the heavenly finger crack that follows is the crux.. |
Looking down at the initial corner of pitch 3 #throughglass |
Over the roof. What follows is an amazing 5.10c finger crack (out of the photo) |
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Pitch 4. Super thin flake (5.10b, but do not fall) |
Beautiful view from Cardinal Pinnacle |
The "hamlet" of Aspendell as seen from the summit of Cardinal Pinnacle. Bishop way down in the distance.. |
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Rappelling down Cardinal Pinnacle. #throughglass |
Looking down The Prow, 5.12b finger crack - WOW! |
Looking up at the finger crack of The Prow, 5.12b. We toproped it shortly after - AMAZING! |
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Leading V8 Crack, 5.10d. #throughglass |
Karen on the crux moves of V8 Crack |
Nearing the top of V8 Crack |
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Starting up the West Face on Sunday morning |
West Face start |
Higher on the first pitch |
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V8 Crack as seen across from the base of Cardinal Pinnacle. How can you resist such a splitter? |
Starting the 2nd pitch of the West Face - it starts with an amazing hands splitter in a corner, and only gets better. Cocaine for climbers! |
Looking up at the end of the 2nd pitch of the West Face. Super fun moves right & around the arete - secure climbing, lots of air! |
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Karen on the 3rd pitch of the West Face, also a sweet pitch! |
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Sunday was much less smokey |
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Beautiful! |
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Endless talus below |
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The money pitch on Cucumbers, or Cukes, which we toproped quickly |
Karen linking pitches 3 & 4 (mostly, we stopped at a different belay to lower onto Cukes) |
In the short 5.8 chimney on the West Face |
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Smokey drive home! |
The sun is not supposed to be this color.. |
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