Consolation (5.8, 7 pitches), Ghost River 2006
September 3, 2006

Climbed the route Consolation on Wully Wall in the Ghost with Nayden. We mixed in a 5.10a pitch from another route ("Prize Fight"?) which was a direct and fun corner that took us to the next belay station as opposed to a choosy traverse we were supposed to do. Good times! The horizontal traverse pitch under the large overhang is interesting. The guidebook says to go "down and left" after clipping the station passed on the traverse, but the correct way to describe it is "up and left". Down and left is doable too, but it's more along a hairy 5.9 downclimb, with a couple of difficult moves to gain the belay ledge afterwards, not well protected. The last pitch is one of the most fun, directly up the corner and over the small roof (5.8). Rappelled the route from there in 4 double rope raps.

  Very approximate route photo (bottom not accurate at all) driving in  

  ahh i love the ghost  

  Phantom crags Nayden coming up to the belay ledge on one of the pitches Clean 5.8 hand crack - joy!  

  sucking in the views view toward Johnston Lakes area The large overhang feature at the top of the cliff (sustained 5.11a)  

  5.10a pitch variation by following this corner past two bolts (crux) Nayden coming up after the 5.10a pitch Me on the  

  enjoying it! cranking a few moves up me half-way through the traverse  

  Nayden belaying me on the last pitch, I'm about to go up the corner The fun-looking corner with small roof overtop Nayden showing where the top is :)  

  more views before we rappel looking back at the route from the ground  

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