Crying Time Again, Lembert Dome
July 27, 2008
Having climbed
Middle Earth the day before, I was in need of a
mental break, but I thought this climb was pretty heady too.
At least the bolts were new and solid.
Karén started the first pitch, making short work of it. The 5.8
slab traverse gave me a lot to think about as a second, in fact it
scared me for the rest of the climb - luckily the rest was very
different.
I got the next lead, linking pitches 2 and 3. I found the 5.9 move
next to the bolt easy (perhaps height dependent), but the 5.7 R
mantle was quite tricky to figure out, and like the rating suggests,
it's runout - it's not a joke. I clipped a few more bolts and
belayed Karen from a comfortable ledge. He led the next pitch
uneventfully, it had a sustained 5.9 section with a tricky move or
two, but well protected.
Pitch 5 was nothing special, although I couldn't tell apart where
the crux was: everything seemed like it could be 5.8-5.9, pretty
sustained. The first bolt was pretty high too... basically it seemed
that if it was below 5.8, it wasn't worth bolting - fair enough I
guess! I then brought Karén up, and he dispatched the last (6th)
and crux pitch, which is beautiful (and closely bolted) 5.10a face.
I found it pretty hard on toprope, and felt ready to go home.
The nice thing about this route is that it tops out on the very
summit: so we had a quick snack and descended down the 4th class
slabs, which are somewhat scary but deposit you right at your
car. Another fine weekend in Tuolumne!!
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Our campspot in the morning - subaru commercial? |
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Karen coming up pitch 2 on Crying Time Again - the 5.7R mantel is just below him |
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looking down from the top of pitch 3 |
the rest of the climb: steep and improbable looking |
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beautiful morning view of Tuolumne (Cathedral Peak on the left) |
Cathedral Peak from Lembert Dome |
Karen on pitch 4 |
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Looking down the climb from the top of pitch 5 |
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if you look close, you'll see a party topping out on Northwest Direct (5.10c) |
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Karen at the last (crux) pitch, pulling on tiny holds |
cranking |
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Looking up the 4th class slabs after we descended them |
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