Crying Time Again, Lembert Dome
July 27, 2008

Having climbed Middle Earth the day before, I was in need of a mental break, but I thought this climb was pretty heady too. At least the bolts were new and solid.

Karén started the first pitch, making short work of it. The 5.8 slab traverse gave me a lot to think about as a second, in fact it scared me for the rest of the climb - luckily the rest was very different.

I got the next lead, linking pitches 2 and 3. I found the 5.9 move next to the bolt easy (perhaps height dependent), but the 5.7 R mantle was quite tricky to figure out, and like the rating suggests, it's runout - it's not a joke. I clipped a few more bolts and belayed Karen from a comfortable ledge. He led the next pitch uneventfully, it had a sustained 5.9 section with a tricky move or two, but well protected.

Pitch 5 was nothing special, although I couldn't tell apart where the crux was: everything seemed like it could be 5.8-5.9, pretty sustained. The first bolt was pretty high too... basically it seemed that if it was below 5.8, it wasn't worth bolting - fair enough I guess! I then brought Karén up, and he dispatched the last (6th) and crux pitch, which is beautiful (and closely bolted) 5.10a face. I found it pretty hard on toprope, and felt ready to go home.

The nice thing about this route is that it tops out on the very summit: so we had a quick snack and descended down the 4th class slabs, which are somewhat scary but deposit you right at your car. Another fine weekend in Tuolumne!!

  Our campspot in the morning - subaru commercial? Karen coming up pitch 2 on Crying Time Again - the 5.7R mantel is just below him  
  Our campspot in the morning - subaru commercial? Karen coming up pitch 2 on Crying Time Again - the 5.7R mantel is just below him

  looking down from the top of pitch 3 the rest of the climb: steep and improbable looking  
  looking down from the top of pitch 3 the rest of the climb: steep and improbable looking

  beautiful morning view of Tuolumne (Cathedral Peak on the left) Cathedral Peak from Lembert Dome Karen on pitch 4  
  beautiful morning view of Tuolumne (Cathedral Peak on the left) Cathedral Peak from Lembert Dome Karen on pitch 4

  Looking down the climb from the top of pitch 5  
  Looking down the climb from the top of pitch 5

  if you look close, you'll see a party topping out on Northwest Direct (5.10c)  
  if you look close, you'll see a party topping out on Northwest Direct (5.10c)

  Karen at the last (crux) pitch, pulling on tiny holds cranking  
  Karen at the last (crux) pitch, pulling on tiny holds cranking

   
 

  Looking up the 4th class slabs after we descended them  
  Looking up the 4th class slabs after we descended them

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