Fairview Dome - Regular Route 5.9 (12p)
June 22, 2008
Parisa Tabriz, Peter Valchev

With the 15 minute approach and half hour descent, coupled with spectacular climbing with enormous belay ledges, this is one of the nicest rock climbs anyone could wish for.

We started the day early (7am at the parking lot) and took our time starting, as it was quite cold. However, it warmed up fairly quickly and we were in the sun the whole day! Probably due to the cold, we managed to be first on route, but not for long: as soon as I was atop pitch 1 belaying Parisa, I counted 8 more people at the base! In the first few pitches we let two fast teams pass us, but afterwards we didn't see anyone and really enjoyed climbing in the sun. I had been slightly nervous about the first pitch, but I didn't really even notice where the crux is. There is a sustained 20ft section but the protection is great, and there are nice big edges for feet. The 3rd pitch feels more sustained and I'd even put it as the crux, if I had to chose one... The other highlight is the 5.7 roof higher up on the climb, which is airy and memorable.

After pitch 8, the terrain becomes much easier, but there is some routefinding involved in picking the easiest line. We chose to belay which was quick enough, but simulclimbing would make sense. One of the cool things about this climb is that there isn't a single bolt on it, and almost no fixed gear (1 or 2 old pitons).

The descent is beautiful: 2nd/3rd class slab all the way down from the summit. It takes only 30-40 minutes to make it from the summit to the car! This has to be one of the friendliest long climbs that exist... instant 20 min approach, sweet climbing with spacious belay ledges, and a quick, pleasant descent. What a great day!

  Mono Lake sunset  
  Mono Lake sunset

  7am in the parking lot :)  
  7am in the parking lot :)

  cougar (?) tracks in the snow Overview of the first few pitches of the Regular Route on Fairview Dome (5.9)  
  cougar (?) tracks in the snow Overview of the first few pitches of the Regular Route on Fairview Dome (5.9)

  The first three pitches I am starting the first pitch Past the crux  
  The first three pitches I am starting the first pitch Past the crux

  Resting my calves past the crux :) Looking down from the top of the first pitch Parisa belaying at the base of the route  
  Resting my calves past the crux :) Looking down from the top of the first pitch Parisa belaying at the base of the route

  We let these guys pass Parisa chilling at the belay while I let this guy pass us What a busy place!  
  We let these guys pass Parisa chilling at the belay while I let this guy pass us What a busy place!

  Looking up the 3rd pitch (belay after the little roof) Nice view of Tuolumne  
  Looking up the 3rd pitch (belay after the little roof) Nice view of Tuolumne

  Looking down the route from up high Parisa cruising after having done the steep roof without any troule  
  Looking down the route from up high Parisa cruising after having done the steep roof without any troule

  Playing with the perspective.. Looking up (the route traverses right on a horizontal ledge here)  
  Playing with the perspective.. Looking up (the route traverses right on a horizontal ledge here)

  Pitch 8, before the traverse Parisa climbing steep 5.7  
  Pitch 8, before the traverse Parisa climbing steep 5.7

  The start of the traverse Parisa happy to have finished all the harder pitches  
  The start of the traverse Parisa happy to have finished all the harder pitches

  Enjoying another luxurious belay ledge (top of pitch 8) Posing.. :)  
  Enjoying another luxurious belay ledge (top of pitch 8) Posing.. :)

  More posing I blinked and the descent was almost finished (nice!) Pretty views of Tuolumne  
  More posing I blinked and the descent was almost finished (nice!) Pretty views of Tuolumne

  There was some smoke making things slightly hazy  
  There was some smoke making things slightly hazy

  Looking back on the descent - 3rd class slab Parisa happy to be down!  
  Looking back on the descent - 3rd class slab Parisa happy to be down!

  5 minutes from the car  
  5 minutes from the car

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