Gunks
May 9-10, 2009
Routes: Airy Aria, Ant's Line, Bonnie's Roof Direct, Directissima
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Chris and I were in Manhattan to visit the Google office and do some
work with a team here. On the weekend we decided to escape the city
madness and go rock climbing in the Gunks, a famous rock climbing
destination on the East Coast with rich history. This was much
better on our livers than staying in NYC and overall a great
experience!
The forecast showed rain, but we headed up on Saturday anyway. The
rock and the ground was pretty wet on Saturday, we climbed Airy Aria
(5.8/5.9) which was supposed to be still dry even in rain. This was
true for the first pitch, and the second pitch wasn't too bad. What
a great climb! Afterwards we went over to Ant's Line (5.9) which was
completely soaked... every inch of it. The crack in the corner was
filled with a nasty paste of the old chalk that made things quite
slippery and interesting - combined with the dozens of millipedes
that were crawling out of the cracks (one of which made me scream
like a little girl when it came out when I least expected it). If it
doesn't sound like it, yes, we had a lot of fun. We were packing up
our gear and then it started pouring rain heavily - our dilemma of
whether to do another climb or not was solved, we were off to our
motel to clean up and dry our gear.
We slept in on Sunday, since we needed sleep and figured the rock
would be wet. Interestingly, a lot of things had dried out
overnight, much to our surprise. There were 5 times more climbers
than on Saturday, and all of the classic routes seemed taken, with a
line of people waiting on some! To our surprise, Bonnie's Roof
(5.8+ 1p, 5.9+ 2p) was open. In fact someone had bailed from before the
crux and left a piece of gear, apparently due to the wetness. We
weren't scared of water based on our experience on Saturday so I
headed up. The only wet section was around the crux, and it only
made it more exciting. My attempts to chalk up while staring at the
intimidating roof were futile: instead, I had a stream of water
running down my forearm when I stuffed my hand in a jam. I almost
thought about pulling on some gear, but after wiping my hands on my
shirt I decided to go for it in the end, and the memories of
desperately pulling around the roof with wet hands will stick with
me for a while. After that, the climb eases off significantly and I
belayed Chris on the ledge under the large roof. For the second
pitch, there is an option of either traversing left onto the face,
or going up and right over some wild-looking roofs for the direct
finish (5.9+). We opted for the latter as it looked like a lot more
fun, and it proved to be full value. A couple of hard moves over the
first roof were followed by a huge jug and another roof to the belay
ledge at the top: very exciting, with lots of exposure.
Afterwards we climbed Directissima (5.9) to the GT ledge and
finished on the classic High Exposure - great climbs.
With that, the weekend was over and we drove back to Manhattan. Now
a few more days of work and checking out the city, and I'm excited
to go back to California!
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Millipedes were everywhere and tried to eat me. (photo by Chris) |
$15 per person, per day. Ouch!!! |
Lots of green |
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Bonnie's Roof (5.8+) |
The start of Airy Aria |
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Starting the 2nd pitch of Airy Aria |
Looking down at the belay from the 2nd pitch of Airy Aria |
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Airy Aria, second pitch |
Airy Aria, second pitch |
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Starting up Ant's Line, crazy good 5.9 corner (that was a waterfall full of millipedes) |
Resting before negotiating a smaller roof after the crux roof |
Consistently overhanging (I had a handjam and asked Chris for a photo while trying to control my pump) |
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Looking down at Ant's Line |
Chris starting up Ant's Line |
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Guard of the aliens |
Bonnie's Roof (should be plural) |
Mr Evans |
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Me on Bonnie's Roof |
Above the crux on Bonnie's (which was wet) |
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Posing |
Psyching myself for the Bonnie's Roof Direct 2nd pitch (5.9+) |
Posing before starting |
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A girl on a route at the Gunks |
Look closer to see the climber |
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The view from the Trapps at the Gunks |
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Chris starting up the wild Bonnie's direct finish |
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Kirk just past the crux roof on Bonnie's Direct finish (but more to come) |
Kirk on Bonnie's Direct finish |
Kirk on the final moves |
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Kirk finishing Bonnie's Direct finish |
Belay on Directissima |
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Cool-looking climbs on the hike out |
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Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
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Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
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Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
Manhattan view from the Empire State Building |
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