Hotline (Elephant Rock) and Gripper (Arch Rock)
October 13-14, 2012
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We got some rain this week, but thankfully it ended on Friday afternoon, so off to Yosemite again! Late night and sleeping in resulted in a 12:30pm start from the parking lot at the Cookie. :)

Hotline is an amazing climb that has been on my radar ever since some friends told me about the amazing hand crack on it (and according to some supertopo discussion, the best crack in Yosemite). With superlatives like that, it seemed like a no brainer! However, there are two issues: 1) the grade of 5.12 is not very friendly to the weekend 5.9 climber, and 2) the normal approach requires crossing the Merced river, which is only passable in October-November in usual years. Given it was October, and the river was very low, all the ingredients were there!

The first pitch is very fun, I aided the end of the 11+ crack/5.12 traverse and soon arrived at the belay underneath the amazing hand crack. Melissa enjoyed the first pitch as well, but also pulled on gear/aided the traverse (it is quite hard, and scary!) The hand crack was amazing.. no words can really describe it - briefly 0.75 camalots, then #1, #2 and eventually #3 for a little bit. Cracks don't get better than that in Yosemite. I linked the next two pitches as well (which was a bit exciting with a wide crack finish and my only #3 camalot far below), and rappelled from there (so we did not do the final pitch, for obvious reasons... 5.10d wide flare or 5.11d roof). :)

On Sunday we did Gripper (Arch Rock) in the morning and drove home, a great October weekend!

  Crossing the Merced on the way to Hotline Hotline - the money pitch follows the gorgeous splitter right in the middle!  
  Crossing the Merced on the way to Hotline Hotline - the money pitch follows the gorgeous splitter right in the middle!

  The bushwhacking is over! At the base of the first pitch There are some scary loose blocks through there, care needed  
  The bushwhacking is over! At the base of the first pitch There are some scary loose blocks through there, care needed

  The roof above my head is super fun 5.10 Pulling over the roof  
  The roof above my head is super fun 5.10 Pulling over the roof

  Higher up, there are some hard moves to gain the bolt/optional belay Resting at the optional belay  
  Higher up, there are some hard moves to gain the bolt/optional belay Resting at the optional belay

  Aiding mode The amazing crack begins  
  Aiding mode The amazing crack begins

  So stoked!!! Cookie Cliff! OMG!  
  So stoked!!! Cookie Cliff! OMG!

  Nabisco Wall is crowded this weekend!  
  Nabisco Wall is crowded this weekend!

  Pitch 4  
  Pitch 4

  Kind of awkward climbing, but fun Pitch 4 fun Then it gets easier for a while  
  Kind of awkward climbing, but fun Pitch 4 fun Then it gets easier for a while

  Looking down the awkward start of pitch 4 Nearing the end of pitch 4. It's a weird mantle on a spooky and huge detached block (hope it stays!) Nearing the end of pitch 5 (we linked 4 & 5)  
  Looking down the awkward start of pitch 4 Nearing the end of pitch 4. It's a weird mantle on a spooky and huge detached block (hope it stays!) Nearing the end of pitch 5 (we linked 4 & 5)

  Fun stemming affair at the end of pitch 5. The 5.8 fists at the end is exciting too Rappelling Hotline What a crack!  
  Fun stemming affair at the end of pitch 5. The 5.8 fists at the end is exciting too Rappelling Hotline What a crack!

  Arch Rock The start of Gripper Starting Gripper  
  Arch Rock The start of Gripper Starting Gripper

  In the awkward flare Awkward as hell right there Emerging from the chimney  
  In the awkward flare Awkward as hell right there Emerging from the chimney

  It gets easier from there even if it's technically the crux... Done with the burly first pitch!  
  It gets easier from there even if it's technically the crux... Done with the burly first pitch!

  The second pitch - 5.8 fists to start My rope stacking job == art? :)  
  The second pitch - 5.8 fists to start My rope stacking job == art? :)

  Easy 5.8 traverse Looking down pitch 2 corner  
  Easy 5.8 traverse Looking down pitch 2 corner

  Linking into the pitch 3 handcrack Glorious hand jams Looking down pitch 3 of Gripper - awesome!  
  Linking into the pitch 3 handcrack Glorious hand jams Looking down pitch 3 of Gripper - awesome!

  Highway 140 - RV's always pause here  
  Highway 140 - RV's always pause here

  River side snacks  
  River side snacks

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