Hotline (Elephant Rock) and Gripper (Arch Rock)
October 13-14, 2012
Previous Page
We got some rain this week, but thankfully it ended on Friday
afternoon, so off to Yosemite again! Late night and sleeping in
resulted in a 12:30pm start from the parking lot at the Cookie. :)
Hotline is an amazing climb that has been on my radar ever
since some friends told me about the amazing hand crack on it
(and according to some supertopo discussion, the best crack in
Yosemite). With superlatives like that, it seemed like a no brainer!
However, there are two issues: 1) the grade of 5.12 is not very
friendly to the weekend 5.9 climber, and 2) the normal approach
requires crossing the Merced river, which is only passable in
October-November in usual years. Given it was October, and the
river was very low, all the ingredients were there!
The first pitch is very fun, I aided the end of the 11+ crack/5.12
traverse and soon arrived at the belay underneath the amazing
hand crack. Melissa enjoyed the first pitch as well, but also
pulled on gear/aided the traverse (it is quite hard, and scary!)
The hand crack was amazing.. no words can really describe it -
briefly 0.75 camalots, then #1, #2 and eventually #3 for a little
bit. Cracks don't get better than that in Yosemite. I linked
the next two pitches as well (which was a bit exciting with a wide
crack finish and my only #3 camalot far below), and rappelled
from there (so we did not do the final pitch, for obvious
reasons... 5.10d wide flare or 5.11d roof). :)
On Sunday we did Gripper (Arch Rock) in the morning and
drove home, a great October weekend!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Crossing the Merced on the way to Hotline |
|
Hotline - the money pitch follows the gorgeous splitter right in the middle! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The bushwhacking is over! |
At the base of the first pitch |
There are some scary loose blocks through there, care needed |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The roof above my head is super fun 5.10 |
Pulling over the roof |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Higher up, there are some hard moves to gain the bolt/optional belay |
Resting at the optional belay |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aiding mode |
|
The amazing crack begins |
|
|
|
|
|
|
So stoked!!! |
Cookie Cliff! |
OMG! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nabisco Wall is crowded this weekend! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Kind of awkward climbing, but fun |
Pitch 4 fun |
Then it gets easier for a while |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looking down the awkward start of pitch 4 |
Nearing the end of pitch 4. It's a weird mantle on a spooky and huge detached block (hope it stays!) |
Nearing the end of pitch 5 (we linked 4 & 5) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fun stemming affair at the end of pitch 5. The 5.8 fists at the end is exciting too |
Rappelling Hotline |
What a crack! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arch Rock |
The start of Gripper |
Starting Gripper |
|
|
|
|
|
|
In the awkward flare |
Awkward as hell right there |
Emerging from the chimney |
|
|
|
|
|
|
It gets easier from there even if it's technically the crux... |
Done with the burly first pitch! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The second pitch - 5.8 fists to start |
|
My rope stacking job == art? :) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Easy 5.8 traverse |
Looking down pitch 2 corner |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Linking into the pitch 3 handcrack |
Glorious hand jams |
Looking down pitch 3 of Gripper - awesome! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Highway 140 - RV's always pause here |
|
Previous Page