Hydrophobia 2009
V 150m, WI 5+
March 28, 2009
Peter Valchev, Hedd-wyn Williams
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I had just flown in from California as I needed to renew my passport
and figured I'd get some climbing in. Hedd-wyn and I decided to head
to Hydrophobia, which is one of my favourite climbs. It has a
special place in my heart as it was one of my
first ice climbs, and I keep returning (like last
season).
So we headed there on Saturday, with an early start. We promptly got
stuck and used my
More Power Puller to get us out quickly. This happened again
later even though we put chains in the rear, and probably wasted us
about an hour. Not to worry though, we had time!
The last bit of hiking up the drainage to the climb wasn't too bad -
about an hour with some postholing, but there was a great snowshoe
trail from some guys that hiked in the previous week, but didn't
climb. There is a beautiful meadow with large boulders before the
climb - it's always neat to walk through it. From there, the climb
looked gorgeous and it was completely in the sun - earlier in the
season, it never sees sun, but it was almost April, making it much
warmer and nicer! Since I'm getting soft in California these days,
the warmth was appreciated.
Soon we were at the base gearing up, and we soloed the easy apron
to the base of the pillar which signifies the start of the real
climbing. We setup a nice comfy belay there and I headed up. I was
psyched to try my
brand new ice tools - and they were totally awesome. I was a bit
afraid to go totally leashless so I had my quark leashes (which also
work on the nomics!) in my pocket just in case, but they weren't
necessary. :) After going almost a full 70 meters, I got into the
cave that is 2/3rds of the way up the climb. I cleared some of the
daggers there to get in, and settled for a very comfortable belay.
Hedd-wyn joined me, smiling on the way as usual.
Since he has done this climb many times and I was feeling great, I
asked him to let me lead the next & final pitch too - and he agreed.
Since I was a visiting guest, he was nice to me. :) I was extremely
happy - I was just starting to get cold, so it was nice to start
moving again. Hedd-wyn said that was the first time this season he
got to enjoy a toprope (having for example led all of Nemesis the
week prior) and I was happy to do the whole thing. For once, I
actually wished there was another pitch when I topped out!
However, we were on top and so we rappelled off. 70 meter ropes are
so nice - they allowed for two full length raps that got us all the
way to the ground. We divided the gear and headed back, knowing that
the day isn't over until we drive out - the crux of the day was
still ahead of us, and we knew that!
Sure enough, we got stuck shortly after. Lots of digging, winching
and using traction plates in front of the rear wheels, and we were
making progress - although it was measured by about 10 feet of
distance covered in two hours. Discouraging.. when it hit 11pm I was
so exhausted I just wanted to go to sleep in the truck, but Hedd-wyn
was enthusiastic and I remember at one point said "let's get to
work, at this rate we'll be home at 2-3am" - which at the time,
seemed like a best case scenario. It was also dumping snow (got
6-8" overnight) so it was preferred not to linger too much.
Eventually, we made it home to Calgary after 2am - didn't get stuck
on the remaining trail, thanks to Hedd-wyn's great driving. We got
the full Waiparous experience - more calories and time spent digging
and winching than climbing. What a great & memorable day!
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Putting on & tightening the chains proactively |
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Stuck. |
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We are stuck - why do I look happy? |
Heddwyn tries to pull the truck with muscle power |
Short work for my hand winch: a "More Power Puller", highly recommended |
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Winch got us out in no time |
Hedd-wyn setting a GPS point. Hydrophobia is behind the yellow buttress on the left with the top barely visible. |
We followed a snowshoe trail and stayed on top for the most part, but postholed once in a while |
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Postholing is fun |
This might be a cool bouldering area in the summer! |
The morning doesn't start until some postholing exercise |
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Approaching with Hydrophobia in full view now! |
First view of Hydrophobia |
Hydrophobia in the sun: late March special, for a few hours only, get it while it lasts! |
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Hydrophobia looking great! |
Cannot get enough! |
Hydrophobia catching some sun on the left, with Cryophobia a mixed route on the right that's basically gone |
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Looking up at start of the pillar (crux) |
Hedd-wyn making himself comfortable at the base of the pillar, sporting a yellow helmet for the ladies |
the bomber first belay |
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The pillar looks a bit tricky & rotten, but turned out excellent |
Have I mentioned I have brand new tools that I couldn't wait to try? |
Swinging the new tools for the first time :) |
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At the crux |
Hard to believe, but this is all only one pitch from the ground! A long one, at that - almost full 70 meters :) |
A gorgeous day in the Waiparous! |
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There is no better place on earth right now :) |
Keeping entertained while Hedd-wyn prepares to start climbing :-) |
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Another view, showing the steep pillar on the left of the cave: vertical for the first 20 feet |
Steeeep beautiful ice all the way to the ground |
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Arrived! |
Hi there! Start of 2nd & last pitch |
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Starting the 2nd pitch |
The belay at the top of the climb |
Top of Cryophobia, V M8 WI 5+: the ice is totally sunbaked and rotten, more of an early season climb |
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Wishing there was another pitch of this ice! |
Hedd-wyn loves climbing in the Ghost & Waiparous! |
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At the top of the climb |
Thumbs up! |
Time to get out of here! |
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Rappelling |
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Goodbye Hydrophobia! When will I see you again next? :) |
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Did I mention I liked my new tools? |
I don't know it yet, but the crux of the day is still to come. |
Breaking up the hard snow under the diffs, since we are high centered |
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At one point during the night, one of the chains came off. Thankfully, it wasn't at the steepest section of the hill, so we could replace it. |
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