Lover's Leap
October 9-10, 2010
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An amazing weekend at Lover's Leap! Few people and perfect
temperatures. We even stayed in the campground on Saturday
night, which was very nice and convenient. I love October
climbing!
On Saturday, we started climbing around noon, and did The
Line (5.9) - great two pitches. Then we walked down and
did Scimitar (3p, 5.9), which is even better! The last pitch is truly
wild, and the first and second pitches are also memorable.
We both felt it was even nicer than The Line, although less
popular for some reason (it's harder, for one).
On Sunday we also had a lazy start - the chilly October
mornings mean there's no need to rush :) We went over to
do Hospital Corner (5.10a), which I've always wanted to do, but
a party was just roping up for the first pitch. So we kept
walking and did Stem Meister, an amazing 5.10a stemming corner!
Steeper than it looks, with perfect stems as the name implies.
After that, we walked
back to Hospital Corner and got on it behind the other party.
The second pitch is pretty awesome, per its reputation.
After rappelling, we did Arctic Breeze, a nice 5.10a sport climb
on the left, and I desperately toproped Nirvana, an 11c sport
climb on the arete. We still had energy, so we walked to the
Lower Buttress and did the first pitch of Sinbad-Herbert and
Surrealistic Pillar Direct, two fantastic 5.10b pitches...
a day, and indeed a weekend full of absolutely stellar climbing!
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At the base of The Line, sweet 5.9 |
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Melissa coming up the first pitch of The Line |
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The second pitch of The Line, finishing with a spectacular roof |
Warm in the sun! |
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Scimitar, amazing 3-pitch 5.9 |
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Looking down the first pitch of Scimitar |
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Second pitch of Scimitar, the next 40 feet are runout and then you get a weird roof, followed by fun |
Higher up the second pitch of Scimitar: steep! |
Start of the final pitch of Scimitar: the wildest |
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Melissa topping out on Scimitar, the fun doesn't end until the very end! |
Enjoying October! |
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Beautiful light on the East Wall |
Scimitar & The Line in red |
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Huge tree at the campground |
On Stem Meister, amazing short 5.10a that is surprisingly steep! |
Higher up Stem Meister |
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Finishing Stem Meister, with Hans finishing the 5.11c next to it |
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Melissa on Stem Meister |
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Starting up the first pitch of Hospital Corner |
All smiles! |
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Starting up the business Hospital Corner |
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Whoohoo |
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Finished toproping Nirvana, a wicked 5.11c arete |
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Full view of Nirvana, which follows the arete just left of Hospital Corner |
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The first pitch of Sinbad-Herberd, a killer 5.10b overhanging hand crack (more like 5.9+ with stems) |
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Melissa milking a stem on the first pitch of Sinbad-Herbert |
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At the base of Surrealistic Pillar Direct, stoked |
Amazing climb |
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5.10a traverse, a little easier if you're tall |
Fiddling with gear at the 5.10b roof |
Just above the 5.10b moves |
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Pumped out of my mind, but almost at the top |
A full view of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Rappelling down, it turned out the roof overhung by 6 feet! |
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