Lover's Leap
October 9-10, 2010
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An amazing weekend at Lover's Leap! Few people and perfect temperatures. We even stayed in the campground on Saturday night, which was very nice and convenient. I love October climbing!

On Saturday, we started climbing around noon, and did The Line (5.9) - great two pitches. Then we walked down and did Scimitar (3p, 5.9), which is even better! The last pitch is truly wild, and the first and second pitches are also memorable. We both felt it was even nicer than The Line, although less popular for some reason (it's harder, for one).

On Sunday we also had a lazy start - the chilly October mornings mean there's no need to rush :) We went over to do Hospital Corner (5.10a), which I've always wanted to do, but a party was just roping up for the first pitch. So we kept walking and did Stem Meister, an amazing 5.10a stemming corner! Steeper than it looks, with perfect stems as the name implies. After that, we walked back to Hospital Corner and got on it behind the other party. The second pitch is pretty awesome, per its reputation. After rappelling, we did Arctic Breeze, a nice 5.10a sport climb on the left, and I desperately toproped Nirvana, an 11c sport climb on the arete. We still had energy, so we walked to the Lower Buttress and did the first pitch of Sinbad-Herbert and Surrealistic Pillar Direct, two fantastic 5.10b pitches... a day, and indeed a weekend full of absolutely stellar climbing!

  At the base of The Line, sweet 5.9 Melissa coming up the first pitch of The Line  
  At the base of The Line, sweet 5.9 Melissa coming up the first pitch of The Line

  The second pitch of The Line, finishing with a spectacular roof Warm in the sun!  
  The second pitch of The Line, finishing with a spectacular roof Warm in the sun!

  Scimitar, amazing 3-pitch 5.9  
  Scimitar, amazing 3-pitch 5.9

  Looking down the first pitch of Scimitar  
  Looking down the first pitch of Scimitar

  Second pitch of Scimitar, the next 40 feet are runout and then you get a weird roof, followed by fun Higher up the second pitch of Scimitar: steep! Start of the final pitch of Scimitar: the wildest  
  Second pitch of Scimitar, the next 40 feet are runout and then you get a weird roof, followed by fun Higher up the second pitch of Scimitar: steep! Start of the final pitch of Scimitar: the wildest

  First roof Second roof  
  First roof Second roof

  Melissa topping out on Scimitar, the fun doesn't end until the very end! Enjoying October!  
  Melissa topping out on Scimitar, the fun doesn't end until the very end! Enjoying October!

  Beautiful light on the East Wall Scimitar & The Line in red  
  Beautiful light on the East Wall Scimitar & The Line in red

  Huge tree at the campground On Stem Meister, amazing short 5.10a that is surprisingly steep! Higher up Stem Meister  
  Huge tree at the campground On Stem Meister, amazing short 5.10a that is surprisingly steep! Higher up Stem Meister

  Finishing Stem Meister, with Hans finishing the 5.11c next to it Melissa on Stem Meister  
  Finishing Stem Meister, with Hans finishing the 5.11c next to it Melissa on Stem Meister

  Starting up the first pitch of Hospital Corner All smiles!  
  Starting up the first pitch of Hospital Corner All smiles!

  Starting up the business Hospital Corner Whoohoo  
  Starting up the business Hospital Corner Whoohoo

  Finished toproping Nirvana, a wicked 5.11c arete Full view of Nirvana, which follows the arete just left of Hospital Corner  
  Finished toproping Nirvana, a wicked 5.11c arete Full view of Nirvana, which follows the arete just left of Hospital Corner

  The first pitch of Sinbad-Herberd, a killer 5.10b overhanging hand crack (more like 5.9+ with stems) Melissa milking a stem on the first pitch of Sinbad-Herbert  
  The first pitch of Sinbad-Herberd, a killer 5.10b overhanging hand crack (more like 5.9+ with stems) Melissa milking a stem on the first pitch of Sinbad-Herbert

  At the base of Surrealistic Pillar Direct, stoked Amazing climb  
  At the base of Surrealistic Pillar Direct, stoked Amazing climb

  5.10a traverse, a little easier if you're tall Fiddling with gear at the 5.10b roof Just above the 5.10b moves  
  5.10a traverse, a little easier if you're tall Fiddling with gear at the 5.10b roof Just above the 5.10b moves

  Pumped out of my mind, but almost at the top A full view of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Rappelling down, it turned out the roof overhung by 6 feet!  
  Pumped out of my mind, but almost at the top A full view of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Rappelling down, it turned out the roof overhung by 6 feet!

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