Lover's Leap climbing and South Fork kayaking!
July 30-31, August 20-21 2011
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After coming back from Australia we couldn't wait to go climbing at home again! However, 60% chance of thunderstorms drove us away from our original plan to go to Tuolumne... instead, we went to Lover's Leap, where it was only 30% probability! And just in case it stormed... we threw the kayaks on the roof!

On Saturday, we slept in and started with Psychedelic Tree, one of the best 5.9's at the leap. The temperatures were perfect in the shade, not too hot! Then we went to the Lower Wall hoping to do some of the classics there, but it was super crowded... we got on Hemorroids In Flight which was free. There were huge spiderwebs in the crack I had to clean - clearly doesn't get climbed as much as the other climbs there, but it was super fun! The crux is physical and tricky, indeed... after that, we walked to Hogwild, did a nice 5.10a there while another party finished and then, Melissa did her first gear lead on Hogwild! Not having any trouble at all... way to go.

On Sunday, we did Hospital Corner and The Gamoke, which was pretty amazing (better than Hospital Corner) even. Another party was having an epic on Hospital corner as we rappelled... it was getting hot - and we figured, let's go kayaking! So we went to the South Fork and did our usual stretch of river, which was amazing (first time in the water this year)!

On the second trip, Pavel joined us at the last minute for some climbing on Saturday, and we did Fantasia which I had wanted to do for a while, and was great fun (not as scary as expected, I've done much scarier things in Tuolumne...) Then Pavel went mountain biking, and we went to do The Line, which is always fantastic. After that, we finished on the Lower Buttress with the amazing Sinbad-Herbert - the combination of 5-star hand crack and stellar face climbing above is something you'll remember for a while (do it as 1 pitch). Sunday was Surrealistic Pillar Direct, Tombstone Terror, and Traveller's Buttress. Another amazing weekend at the Leap!

  Climbing + kayaking weekend, so much fun!!! About to start up Psychadelic Tree, one of the best 5.9's at the Leap Stemming is the name of the game on the first pitch  
  Climbing + kayaking weekend, so much fun!!! About to start up Psychadelic Tree, one of the best 5.9's at the Leap Stemming is the name of the game on the first pitch

  Higher up this amazing pitch The second pitch starts through a small 5.9 bulge, and eventually through roofs above One last roof to go...  
  Higher up this amazing pitch The second pitch starts through a small 5.9 bulge, and eventually through roofs above One last roof to go...

  Not smiling for much longer after this! It's hard to get to that position, and even harder to bust through the roof!i Eventually, it happened  
  Not smiling for much longer after this! It's hard to get to that position, and even harder to bust through the roof!i Eventually, it happened

  Starting up a 5.10a next to Hogwild Melissa on the cruiser 5.9 crack above  
  Starting up a 5.10a next to Hogwild Melissa on the cruiser 5.9 crack above

  Melissa on her first trad lead! Running it out with confidence!  
  Melissa on her first trad lead! Running it out with confidence!

  Coming up the first easy pitch of Hospital Corner  
  Coming up the first easy pitch of Hospital Corner

  Enjoying Hospital Corner Really fun stemming  
  Enjoying Hospital Corner Really fun stemming

  First pitch of The Gamut: actually kinda fun!  
  First pitch of The Gamut: actually kinda fun!

  The second pitch, 5.10b awesomeness (stemming low down, and hand crack in the back of chimney higher)  
  The second pitch, 5.10b awesomeness (stemming low down, and hand crack in the back of chimney higher)

  This is the super fun part - hand crack and chimney together! And then, we saw a baby rattlesnake on the trail! He was only about 40cm... and promptly scurried away  
  This is the super fun part - hand crack and chimney together! And then, we saw a baby rattlesnake on the trail! He was only about 40cm... and promptly scurried away

  Starting up Fantasia with Pavel belaying Sweet 5.6 dike hiking up to the first roof... Searching for the first piece of gear on Fantasia  
  Starting up Fantasia with Pavel belaying Sweet 5.6 dike hiking up to the first roof... Searching for the first piece of gear on Fantasia

  5.9 traverse before turning the first roof  
  5.9 traverse before turning the first roof

  The second roof on the first pitch Pavel and I at the belay Loving Lover's Leap!  
  The second roof on the first pitch Pavel and I at the belay Loving Lover's Leap!

  The chicken head sling is entirely psychological Pavel on Fantasia Third pitch of Fantasia  
  The chicken head sling is entirely psychological Pavel on Fantasia Third pitch of Fantasia

  The last pitch has lots of options...  
  The last pitch has lots of options...

   
 

  Starting up The Line The Line is awesome!  
  Starting up The Line The Line is awesome!

  The 5.8 roof at the top of The Line On Sinbad-Herbert, 5.10d face upper section  
  The 5.8 roof at the top of The Line On Sinbad-Herbert, 5.10d face upper section

  Surrealistic Pillar Direct, one of the best 5.10 cracks at the leap - with nobody on it!  
  Surrealistic Pillar Direct, one of the best 5.10 cracks at the leap - with nobody on it!

  Stemming makes the first half easy Starting into the business section  
  Stemming makes the first half easy Starting into the business section

  5.8 perfect hands at the top...  
  5.8 perfect hands at the top...

  The traverse is somewhat tricky (not bad if you're tall) Yours truly after the crux on Tombstone Terror  
  The traverse is somewhat tricky (not bad if you're tall) Yours truly after the crux on Tombstone Terror

  Melissa on Tombstone Terror, flying up it The crux is stemming with smears for feet - strenuous  
  Melissa on Tombstone Terror, flying up it The crux is stemming with smears for feet - strenuous

  About to start flailing on a 5.11 on toprope At the top of the second pitch of Traveller's  
  About to start flailing on a 5.11 on toprope At the top of the second pitch of Traveller's

  Melissa leading the last pitch of Traveller's  
  Melissa leading the last pitch of Traveller's

   
 

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