Lover's Leap climbing and South Fork kayaking!
July 30-31, August 20-21 2011
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After coming back from Australia we couldn't wait to
go climbing at home again! However, 60% chance of thunderstorms
drove us away from our original plan to go to Tuolumne... instead,
we went to Lover's Leap, where it was only 30% probability!
And just in case it stormed... we threw the kayaks on the roof!
On Saturday, we slept in and started with Psychedelic Tree, one of
the best 5.9's at the leap. The temperatures were perfect in the
shade, not too hot! Then we went to the Lower Wall hoping to do
some of the classics there, but it was super crowded... we got on
Hemorroids
In Flight which was free. There were huge spiderwebs in the
crack I had to clean - clearly doesn't get climbed as much as the
other climbs there, but it was super fun! The crux is physical
and tricky, indeed... after that, we walked to Hogwild, did a
nice 5.10a there while another party finished and then,
Melissa did her first gear lead on Hogwild! Not having any
trouble at all... way to go.
On Sunday, we did Hospital Corner and The
Gamoke, which was pretty amazing (better than Hospital Corner)
even. Another party was having an epic on Hospital corner as we
rappelled... it was getting hot - and we figured, let's go
kayaking! So we went to the South Fork and did our usual
stretch of river, which was amazing (first time in the water
this year)!
On the second trip, Pavel joined us at the last minute for
some climbing on Saturday, and we did Fantasia which I had wanted to do for a while, and was great fun (not as scary as expected, I've done much scarier things in Tuolumne...) Then Pavel went mountain biking,
and we went to do The Line, which is always fantastic. After that, we finished on
the Lower Buttress with the amazing Sinbad-Herbert - the
combination of 5-star hand crack and stellar face climbing above is something you'll remember for a
while (do it as 1 pitch). Sunday was Surrealistic Pillar Direct, Tombstone Terror, and Traveller's Buttress.
Another amazing weekend at the Leap!
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Climbing + kayaking weekend, so much fun!!! |
About to start up Psychadelic Tree, one of the best 5.9's at the Leap |
Stemming is the name of the game on the first pitch |
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Higher up this amazing pitch |
The second pitch starts through a small 5.9 bulge, and eventually through roofs above |
One last roof to go... |
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Not smiling for much longer after this! |
It's hard to get to that position, and even harder to bust through the roof!i |
Eventually, it happened |
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Starting up a 5.10a next to Hogwild |
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Melissa on the cruiser 5.9 crack above |
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Melissa on her first trad lead! |
Running it out with confidence! |
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Coming up the first easy pitch of Hospital Corner |
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Enjoying Hospital Corner |
Really fun stemming |
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First pitch of The Gamut: actually kinda fun! |
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The second pitch, 5.10b awesomeness (stemming low down, and hand crack in the back of chimney higher) |
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This is the super fun part - hand crack and chimney together! |
And then, we saw a baby rattlesnake on the trail! He was only about 40cm... and promptly scurried away |
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Starting up Fantasia with Pavel belaying |
Sweet 5.6 dike hiking up to the first roof... |
Searching for the first piece of gear on Fantasia |
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5.9 traverse before turning the first roof |
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The second roof on the first pitch |
Pavel and I at the belay |
Loving Lover's Leap! |
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The chicken head sling is entirely psychological |
Pavel on Fantasia |
Third pitch of Fantasia |
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The last pitch has lots of options... |
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Starting up The Line |
The Line is awesome! |
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The 5.8 roof at the top of The Line |
On Sinbad-Herbert, 5.10d face upper section |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct, one of the best 5.10 cracks at the leap - with nobody on it! |
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Stemming makes the first half easy |
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Starting into the business section |
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5.8 perfect hands at the top... |
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The traverse is somewhat tricky (not bad if you're tall) |
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Yours truly after the crux on Tombstone Terror |
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Melissa on Tombstone Terror, flying up it |
The crux is stemming with smears for feet - strenuous |
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About to start flailing on a 5.11 on toprope |
At the top of the second pitch of Traveller's |
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Melissa leading the last pitch of Traveller's |
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