We met Greg at the pullout shortly after 8am. After packing the gear we headed off - me and Karén were itching to do as much climbing as possible, so we did Euro Trash (5.8 with one move of 5.10+/11a) as a way to approach, while Greg hiked around to meet us at the base of Middle Earth (he had been climbing for a few days straight and preferred this).

More on Euro Trash is in my previous report. Once at the base of Middle Earth, I took the first pitch which is the easiest on the climb, and setup a belay under the crux bulge, where Greg and Karén joined. Karén took the next lead which has a 5.9R move which is more like 5.10... but unlocking the right holds makes it OK. The easiest line is left of the belay, not right. Afterwards, a piton and bolt lead to a 5.10a finger crack which is quite nice! The pitch ends in a bolted belay. Greg followed the pitch first, and replaced all of the bolts with shiny new 3/8" ASCA-branded bolts. It certainly seemed like a tenacious job to do this and Greg was extremely efficient at the process! He also replaced the anchor bolts, and left one of the old ones there for memories (see picture).

Karén took the next pitch too, which has a tricky 5.10a section protected by two bolts right next to each other. Then a 5.10a traverse and some easier climbing. He made short work of it as usual. Due to the traversing nature of this pitch, replacing the bolts was no easy task, but Greg handled it very well. He was certainly tired from all the drilling though, and was glad to hear this was the end of the bolts! There was a bolt next to "tit flake" which seemed completely unnecessary with modern cams, so we just pulled that one.

After following, I headed off pitch 4 which has some tricky 5.9 moves that feel poorly protected but lead to a beautiful and bomber hand crack. Overall this pitch left me smiling both times I did it, and it ends in a cool cave-like feature for a belay.

The last (5th) pitch was also mine, and has a runout before getting in some tiny aliens that protect a very bouldery move. Either a different variation, or a sandbag at the guidebook 5.8 rating. :)

After resting at the top, we descended to the car and all of us went to the Whoa Nelly Deli for a delicious and well deserved dinner!

Overall, all of the bolts on the climb (6 or 7) are now replaced, making it feel much safer for future parties. Thanks to Greg for the hard work and Karén for leading the harder pitches.

Also, here are two movies: [1] (82MB), [2] (184MB) that are begging for someone to edit them... (and Karen's is here)

	me on Euro Trash	me on Euro Trash	looking down the first 2-3 pitches of Euro Trash (approach)

	one more pitch to gain Mariuolumne Dome	me on the first pitch of Middle Earth	Greg Barnes coming up pitch 1

	Greg replacing the ancient bolt by hand drilling	climbers on Hobbit Book (5.7)	weird traverse

		shiny and fresh new bolt!	second pitch of Hobbit Book

	Greg hard at work again	New anchor. Greg left one of the old bolts in the middle for memories..	So much better!

	Greg replacing the bolt on the 5.10a traverse. This one was much trickier as there was swing potential...

	Tenaya Lake and Half Dome	The last pitch of Middle Earth follows the left seam (runout 5.8/5.9). Hobbit Book is on the right.

	Greg coming up pitch 4

	Fairview Dome

			weird crystals

	The intimidating OZ climb, 5.10d (pronounced ounce)	Close up of OZ, goes straight up the dihedral	results of our work