Cookie Cliff, East Buttress of El Capitan
October 6-7, 2012
Previous Page
Temperatures cooled significantly this week, so we made our first return to
the valley since the spring - exciting! On Saturday we slept in, and
eventually made it to the Cookie Cliff around 11am, in no rush. We did
Beverly Tower + Wheat Thin + Butterfingers to the top of the Nabisco Wall.
Wheat Thin may very well be my favorite climb on the Cookie, maybe tied for
first place with Outer Limits... wow, can't believe I hadn't done it before.
We then went to the meadow and lounged around, looking at climbers on El
Cap. There we met up with our friends Ben, Katie and Stacy - we hiked up to
the alcove swing together hoping for some evening entertainment, but it
turned out that the swing wasn't there (no rope)! Bummer. We chilled out on
the ledge there and watched the sunset/stars, eventually making it back to
the car and cooking dinner.
On Sunday, we got up early and went to do the East Buttress of El Cap, a
pretty fun climb that I had already done once before. There was a team on
pitch 4 when we arrived (already far enough ahead that it wouldn't be an
issue), as well as a team on the first pitch belay that seemed to be having
a conversation. What followed was something that I'd much rather forget -
but the team (a girlfriend/boyfriend) were having an epic argument, of
which we could hear 100% (due to the sound carrying down the chimney),
including f-bombs and plenty of cuss words. As far as I could tell the main
reason for the argument was that he didn't want to lead the second pitch
(the crux of the climb), and she wanted him to. Eventually he tried to do
it several times, but kept falling/swinging back into her (it is a very
tricky move). Then after some more swearing, she took over and tried it,
also falling several times and giving up! The interaction between the two
of them was unreal, something I hope to never see again. I sat for at
least 30 minutes below them, trying to see if I can somehow get past them.
Luckily, they decided to bail and they rappelled down - phew.
It was a big relief at that point, that they wouldn't be ahead
of us... and we had an awesome time on the rest of the climb.
With the 70 meter rope we linked lots of pitches: 2+3, 4+5,
7+8, 9+10, 12+13, making it in 8 pitches total (and about 6 hours on the
climb including the time waiting) - not too bad. Then we had an amazingly
smooth descent down - due to some
awesome new fixed ropes on the East Ledges descent, we were able to
quickly rappel and make it to the parking lot in 1 hour and 15 minutes from
the top, which was awesome. Funnily the team that was in front of us got
confused with the descent so we ended up meeting up with them and helping
them/we descended together - they were very friendly and awesome and shared
stories and a cold beer with us at the base! Then as luck would have it, a
few minutes later the Yosemite Shuttle showed up at the Manure Pile
Buttress parking lot and gave us a ride to the meadows, where our car was.
Awesome timing!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Starting up Beverly Tower |
Beverly Tower with Meat Grinder/Red Zinger on the left |
Stemming the Beverly Tower crux - super fun! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What a position! Belaying underneath Wheat Thin |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What an amazing position! |
Lots of liebacking |
Butterballs on the left, with the much much easier Wheat Thin on the right |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Only two cars at the Cookie... what!? |
Melissa about to start Wheat Thin |
What a wild flake! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
On Butterfingers |
|
Near the top of Butterfingers |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The first pitch of EB of El Cap |
Good morning, El Cap! |
I started but had to wait for 30 minutes at the pitch 1 belay, for a team in front to eventually bail |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sun rising over the Cathedrals |
Melissa is snapping photos while I wait for the team in front... |
Lower and Higher Cathedral Spires |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
First light on a lone tree |
Coming up the first pitch, finally - after waiting out the other climbers who bailed |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lots of broken rock up high |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Linked 7 & 8 |
Doing the sketchy 5.9 face variation to the offwidth |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pitches 9 & 10 below (link easily) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Epic view |
Chewing a power bar |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The awesome 11th pitch with Half Dome in the background! My favorite pitch of the route. |
Peak-a-boo! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
View from the top of the East Buttress |
Last pitch |
|
|
|
|
The top! |
Previous Page