On Saturday, we climbed White Punks on Dope (5.8/5.9) on Voodoo Dome - probably my favourite climb anywhere. 6 pitches, every one of which is memorable - amazing variety, as well as quality. The descent, however, sucks. Last time we found something resembling a trail which made it better, but this time we ended up thrashing more. And the bugs in the forest (combined with the heat) were maddening! We (well, mostly I) gorged on all-you-can-eat hearty soup and burgers at the Ponderosa Lodge - a great end to the day!

Motivation for getting up early and doing the hike into the Needles on Sunday was low, so we camped near Dome Rock, slept in and had a very lazy start to the day. Eventually we navigated through the parking lot full of tourists, and walked down to the base of Anti-jello crack - amazing 5.10a fingers (5 stars). There were a couple of girls doing Tree Route next to us. With a 70 meter rope, we did the climb in 3 pitches, and the views from the top were awesome! The nice 2-minute stroll back to the car is hard to beat, too.

On Monday, we went to do Magic Dragon (12 pitches, 5.8 R) on The Magician - the dome/needle with the fire lookout on top. We started with the recommended Black Magic start - I linked the first two pitches, full 70 meters to some good trees for belay. Melissa joined and I headed up the next pitch (our second), which contained a very powerful & awkward bulge, which felt like a total sandbag for a 5.8, or was perhaps off-route (there was a fixed cam/sling below it). From there, a full pitch took us to the base of the large right facing corner above the horse's head (2nd half of the pitch was on slab with no pro). This is where route finding is more challenging - I believe you can either traverse left & climb left of the tree, or climb the right facing corner (not easy), traverse left right above the tree, and climb a wide hands/fist crack to its top. Good belay there from gear. From there, wandering slab pitches encounter a couple of bolts, and belay stations were mostly left of where I expected them. We did the climb in 8 pitches total (7, plus the final one to the actual lookout tower), with a 70 meter rope. The last short pitch is wild - 5.8 OW on vertical rock with big jugs next to it. We topped out at 2:30pm, which was nice so we didn't have to rush, and got back to the Bay Area at a reasonable time, even allowing time for dinner at Chili's along the way!

Magic Dragon pitch-by-pitch beta (70m rope) (see mountainproject.com too)
1. Start on Black Magic. If you don't place much gear, and use long slings, go a full 70 meter to the large ledge where Magic Dragon converges. Belay from tree. 5.8, 70m
2. Go straight up, to the base of a polished corner (old fixed cam). Pulling the roof crack (blue + yellow camalots) felt like a sandbag for a 5.8, more like awkward 5.9. Possible variations. Belay above (slung horn, or finger crack with good gear further left). 30m
3. Climb the corner above (or slightly left), to the top of the horse's head. From there, keep going up the slab (no pro, 5.4) to the base of the upper corner. Belay from blue/yellow TCU's on the right wall. 5.7, 70 meters
4. (variations possible) Go up the corner (I stayed right on the slab initially placing some gear in a flake). After 20-30 meters, pull left on a platform above the large tree. Take the 5.6 hand & fist crack above and belay from gear on the left (purple/green/red camalot?). 5.7, 65 meters
5. Go left and up the slab, finding a 2-bolt belay (old 1/4" and a newer bolt). 50 meters? 5.7
6. Up the slab. There is a bolt, above the crack you see on the right (possible gear too). Run it out, passing a 3-bolt belay station on the left, for a full 70 meters to a higher bolt station, or good crack on the left. 5.5, 70m
7. Now you can see the lookout tower on your left. Walk 4th class slabs left until almost underneath it - 70 meters (or simul climb a little).
8. Up to the lookout tower! Short 5.8 OW with steep jugs, wild. #4 friend protected it well, not sure if #3 camalot would.
Descent: If climbing on a Monday (like us), the lookout is closed/locked. Downclimb to bolts down and left, and do two single rope rappels to the gully right underneath the lookout.

	Starting up the first pitch of White Punks on Dope		In the belay cave on top of pitch 2, White Punks on Dope

	Melissa coming up the first pitch of White Punks on Dope (full 60 meters, or could belay lower)

	Warlock

	The exciting 5.8 slab pitch

		The amazing 5.8 crack finish to White Punks on Dope	Melissa belaying on the 5.8 slab pitch

	At the top!	On the amazing 5.8 crack finish

	Back at the car!	Needles as seen from the top fo Dome Rock (we did Anti-jello crack.. no pics taken)

	Starting up Black Magic, alternative start to Magic Dragon (5.8 R)

	The other side of the Needles	The runouts begin!

	Next pitch. Wide crack above the tree, to a good crack from which I'm belaying.	The Sorcerer

		Next pitch

	Next pitch: more of the same!

		There's the fire lookout! There's a wild 5.8 OW/steep jugs pitch right below it!

		The fire lookout: built in 1938!	Looking back at the 2nd half of Magic Dragon, The Magician