Nemesis
160m, WI 6
December 25, 2008
Peter Valchev, Jason Wilcox
Me and Jason are making a tradition of getting out on Christmas Day
for some ice action - last year, we climbed The Sorcerer
in the Ghost. This year, there were several posts online from people
climbing Nemesis in November, so we decided to get amongst. :)
Unfortunately, the end of December brought frigid -30 C temperatures
so there didn't seem to be much climbing going on, not much getting
reported conditions-wise.
The temperatures were warming up a bit for Christmas so we decided to
give Nemesis a go. Since we were both climbing ice pretty much "off
the couch" (I had flown in from San Francisco a couple of days before,
and Jason had only 1 day of ice in November), we thought we'd go to
Grotto Canyon to get a feel for the ice and see how brittle it is. We
hung out on Hers for a bit getting the blood pumping in our hands, ran
up Grotto Falls quickly and then retreated to my house for a delicious
Christmas dinner. We felt pretty good.
So we were off to Nemesis the next day. Estimated highs during the day
were -20 C - I had two down jackets at times and was pretty cold. The
ice had cement-like qualities making the climbing much more
challenging than it needs to be - sometimes 10 swings needed to get a
placement. Good fun! That said, the ice was quite featured in the
first half of the climb, making for fun and technical climbing that
was much more like rock climbing in nature. We completed it in 4
pitches (Jason started, and we swapped leads).
By the time we rappelled it was dark, we had a quick drink & snack
and motored our way out of there. We were at the car 1 hour later,
much better than the 2.5 hours it took us to approach the climb and
break trail. We had brought skis in the truck, but the trail seemed
pretty good so we walked - skis may have been a bit faster in
hindsight.
I knew I was tired since I was getting pumped gripping my ski poles on
the hike out - trying to get out of the truck in Canmore resulted in
some painful calf cramps too. Thankfully we ate at a buffet and
certainly got our money's worth with 2-3 plates each.
Now the question is, what's in for next year? Ha ha! Merry Christmas!!!
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Jason on Hers in Grotto Canyon |
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Jason lighting up a cigar |
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me and Jason climbed Grotto Canyon side by side before leaving |
His & Hers |
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Stanley Headwall: a lot of hard climbs on here |
The top of Nemesis is barely visible on the left, with Suffer Machine the piece of ice on the right |
Jason pointing at Nemesis |
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Nemesis is the line on the left, Suffer Machine on the right |
Our Nemesis for the day is staring at us!!! |
Suffer Machine (rarely formed to ground, but has mixed start) |
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Close up of the climbs on the headwall, photo by Jason |
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Nemesis with Jason postholing on the foreground |
Full view of Nemesis - almost there! |
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Jason starting up the first pitch |
Jason on top of the first pitch |
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Bundled up and warm |
Jason looking up the 2nd pitch from the belay: goes to the cave top left |
Jason looking down the 1st pitch |
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Me leading the 2nd pitch to the cave |
Jason coming up the 2nd pitch |
Beautiful position... |
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Looking up at the 3rd (traversing) pitch |
5-bolt belay in the cave :) |
Jason starting the 3rd pitch |
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A little tricky to get established on the ice, but fun |
me coming up the 3rd (traverse) pitch |
Wow, check out that smile! |
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Me starting the 4th pitch of Nemesis |
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Beautiful view |
Me looking down from the very top of Nemesis after finishing the 4th pitch! |
Jason at the base of the climb after we rappelled: WHOHOO |
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Back at the truck, an hour later: check out the frozen perspiration on the gaitors! |
Jason back at the truck |
My attempt at looking cool |
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