According to the guidebook, many people turn away at the sight of the first pitch, and I could see why. The 5.11c variation listed in the guidebook 3 feet to the right is a heads up. Once I started climbing the roof I found some great handjams which allowed me to place great pro, but then there was a fairly strenuous move necessary to turn the roof. Sadly I had to rest there, but once I regained my courage I found some footholds and was able to do the move without much trouble. From there, it's a nice hand crack that gains a small ledge - short pitch, but full value. Somehow the original guidebook had it as 5.9+, but supertopo has downgraded it to 5.9.. whatever.

Karén led the second pitch which looked absolutely amazing and I was jealous. The first 50ft section is pretty vertical and offers tremendous handjams and stemming between two double cracks. After that it kicks back a little to a 5.8 crack that leads to a nice spacious belay ledge.

The third pitch started off with a "5.6 offwidth" - I found it a bit spooky with some loose-looking flakes to grab onto and poor protection (we only had gear up to 3.5", a #4 camalot would have been nice). Whatever, it was at least easy, and soon I found myself onto another big ledge. From there, the original route traverses right on 5.6 ground, but there is a 5.9 variation straight up through a roof. I wanted to try it, so I did... but I was met with some resistance. For whatever reason, I couldn't get myself to commit to the move and I must have tried it 10 times. Eventually I convinced myself to go for it, and I crawled above. Then I stood up and found myself stuck in the chimney-like rock above the roof... ugh. I was swearing for a good 10 minutes until I managed to free myself and belay Karen up. He had no trouble squeezing through the narrow section, being a fair bit smaller. Great route, except for those last 5 feet for me!

	Looking up the cliff on the approach		The upper 2/3 of the route

	Pitch 1 and half of pitch 2		The 1st pitch roof, up close

	Pitches 2 and 3 marked	Beautiful view of Tuolumne

	Karén about to start the amazing pitch 2	Karén higher on pitch 2	I am starting pitch 3

	mandatory butt shot	higher up on the "5.6 OW"	Smiling on top, with the crack where I got stuck below me

	Corner of Tenaya Lake and beautiful scenery		Leader of another party on pitch 2