Psychedelic Tree (5.9) and Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
Chris Evans, Peter Valchev
June 28, 2008
Me and Chris did a 1-day trip to Tahoe. After driving up Friday night
and having a good night's sleep, we slowly made it to the parking area
(which now has a fee, grr). After a quick breakfast, we headed off for
the first climb.
Psychedelic Tree looks quite nice from a distance: it sits about 100ft to
the right of The Line, one of the most famous climbs at the Leap. So The
Line sort of steals the show, but I had already done it twice, and it had a
line of 3 parties waiting at the base as usual. Our climb had noone on it
of course. I started up the first pitch and was shocked to see spiderwebs
inside several of the cracks in the corner: I had to clear them. It made
me giggle at the fact there were so many climbs with lines on them, but I
am clearing spiderwebs? The first pitch was simply amazing. It had some
sustained 5.8 cracks with the occasional harder (5.9) move. I made sure to
use the rest stances when they became available, and took my time. I
stretched out the rope for an almost full 55m length to a spacious ledge
and setup an anchor, bringing Chris up.
The next pitch, I decided to go all the way for the top (making the climb 2
pitches, instead of 4). The first section required negotiating a short 5.9
bulge, and then some easier climbing took us to the Psychedelic Tree. From
here, the original climbers climbed the tree to the top! The other
alternative is to climb the series of roofs to the right of the tree -
a variation that was described "wild" by the guidebook, also calling it
"the most spectacular topout in Lovers Leap". I evaluated it for a while
and eventually went for it, quite intimidated. The first roof required a
short hand traverse followed by a balancy mantle, which was extremely wild
with the air below. I managed to slot a #1 TCU there which made me feel
better, and then went for it. Now I stood up and faced the next roof, which
seemed even harder! A .75 camalot protects this quite well, however, and
after I uncovered a hidden hold, it wasn't as bad as it looked. I was mind
blown by the exposure though - wild is right!!! The remaining roofs/bulges
are much easier and totally leave you smiling once you top out. I belayed
Chris from the tree at the top, we had our lunches and thought about what
to do next. For the record, I think this climb is even better than The
Line: the topout is certainly 10 times more spectacular.
We thought about doing The Line, but once again, there were two parties
sitting at the base... so we tried to see what's available: we eventually
went around to Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) and decided to do that one as
there wasn't a soul in sight. Chris led off on the first pitch without any
trouble, and setup a belay in the horizontal crack. After I joined him, I
headed off for the second pitch... I followed the corner for longer than
the previous time I did this route, and then finally made a very exposed
and fun step-out left to the arete toward the top. The rest of the pitch is
easy and I stretched out the rope to a comfortable belay spot. Chris
quickly joined me, with a facial expression clearly showing his enjoyment
factor, and then finished the remaining 50ft to the top.
We felt content with ourselves and drove back to the Bay Area, stopping
by at Mary's Pizza Shack
to reward our bellies for the hard work. What a great day!
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Me on the approach (our route directly above my head) |
Other climbs are busy |
The first pitch dihedral on Psychedelic Tree - empty |
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Climbers in line for "The Line" |
Me working on the very long pitch 1 (1 and 2 combined) |
Nearing the ledge |
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Looking down from the big ledge |
Chris working the first pitch |
View at the Leap... |
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Looking right toward Traveller Buttress |
Chris nearing the ledge |
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The 5.9 bulge leading to the Psychedelic Trees and the roofs at the top... |
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Done the 5.9 bulge move (pitch 3 on supertopo, our #2) |
Mid-way through the absolutely wild 5.9 finish |
Little red bugs were plentiful and quite weird - what are they? |
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Another ant with a little red victim |
The Line (left) with its sister, Psychedelic Tree, maybe even better of a climb - looks aren't everything! ;) |
Chris on the first pitch of Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) |
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Enjoying the nice horizontal dikes |
Chris on top of pitch 2 of Surrealistic Pillar |
Hmm, is he having a good time or not, I can't tell? |
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Quite hazy from all the forest fires... |
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