Royal Arches
Yosemite Valley
June 13, 2009
~1600 feet of climbing, 5.7 A0 (5.8 start)
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Melissa and I wanted to do a long easy climb to prepare for a
specific objective next month and had several ideas. Unfortunately
the weather forecast was looking grim: 50% chance of showers (and
thunderstorms after 11am) for Saturday, and slightly worse for
Sunday. We considered bailing on the trip altogether and doing
something else, but in the end drove to Yosemite on Friday - "if you
don't try, you won't succeed".
We showed up at the Ahwahnee parking lot around 8am and after
visiting the bathroom and getting the gear ready, another party
turned up in a car. We each looked at each other from our cars and
practically raced to the base, but it turned out they were doing
Serenity - good! So despite the fact we started at 8:30am, we were
the first party on the route - seems suspicious? The sky was blue
but there were some small & pretty puffy clouds - we knew what that
meant so we didn't slack around too much. We chose one of the
variations to the first pitch to bypass the 5.6 chimney, a nice
enough 5.8 crack which took us to the main ledge. We shortened the
rope and scrambled together the rest of the way, briefly pitching
out a few sections. Around 10-11am the sky was dark black across the
valley, but we were still inside a pocket of sunshine - we knew that
wouldn't last all day, however, so kept moving.
We got to the top (pitch 15) around 12:30pm, 4 hours after starting
- not bad. Of course, it started raining a few minutes after Melissa
joined me at the belay, perfect timing! The rappel was uneventful
but took some time with the mandatory tangled ropes, 2.5 hours or
so. We hung out in Yosemite Lodge with a drink in the afternoon and
enjoyed being cozy inside while it was pouring rain outside for the
whole evening. It would have been nice not to feel as rushed, but
Royal Arches is an awesome climb and the weather made it extra
exciting. It is deservedly one of the "50 classics"!
The next day, we went to Hetch Hetchy.
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Feeling pain on the wide hand crack variation |
Jamming |
Melissa about to do the pendulum |
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About to do the pendulum traverse with clouds overhead |
Got it on the first try |
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Arches near the top |
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Melissa near the top as it is starting to rain |
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Pouring rain over there, but we are still mostly dry |
Ready to rappel in the rain? |
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Crisp air in between rain |
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Enjoying a pocket of sunshine between rain |
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Mmm salty almonds! |
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