Shuteye Ridge
June 23-24, 2012
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This was the first trip ever to Shuteye of probably more
to come. Pretty awesome place - did not disappoint. Tom Slater's
"California Road Trip" (awesome book!) has great directions and beta for a
first time visitor, and the place is quite huge, lots of
opportunities for adventure and exploration.
The first obstacle was getting there - the subaru barely made
it up the steep rocky road for the last 3 miles. Low range
gearing would have made it a cakewalk, but without it, some
clutch work and engine lugging in first gear got us there, but it was a
struggle. One note - the clearance of the subaru was sufficient,
but there is no way a Honda civic or something of that sort
would make it in there - Slater's book says "high clearance
recommended", but it's more like mandatory... I think this
might indeed necessitate buying a truck.
The best part of Shuteye is perhaps the gorgeous setting and beautiful
campsite (together with lack of people, we saw one group of dirt bikers and
that's it). We enjoyed it and had a very lazy day on Saturday, climbing a
few routes on High Eagle Dome (which has crazy exfoliation on one side!
apparently used as geology textbook example) - and then finished off on the
Talon, a small formation next to it that gets evening sunshine.
On Sunday we went to the Shangri La, and did the climb on the
guidebook cover (just had to!) as well as a few other fun
climbs there. Wow, neat place for sure, will be back!
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The view from Shuteye Ridge |
High Eagle Dome. Crazy exfoliation! |
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The top of Shangri la wall |
High Eagle Dome cragging area. Lots of routes |
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Colorful rock! |
Upper wall (only very hard climbs there) |
A warm-up 5.10a |
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The roof is the crux |
5.10c next door, juggy and super fun |
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Starting up another climb |
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5.11 on toprope :) |
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The Talon formation, short but steep fun |
Lots of flowers! |
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The road is pretty rough here! We walked this part up a ways to check out the view :) |
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So beautiful |
Cool arch! |
There is a fire lookout up there if you look closely. |
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Fire lookout in the very distance |
Our campsite for the weekend. Hardly saw a soul! |
Melissa being artsy |
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High Eagle Dome, with the talon on the right |
Going down the Shangri la gully (these bushes were nasty if you have allergies, I was suffering!) |
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Steep wall with a lot of fun sport climbs |
Tiny mouse baby |
For scale. Note how tiny this guy is! |
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Batmaning down a fixed rope - part of the approach |
Starting up a fun crack climb warm-up (pretty easy but awesome) |
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Looking over at Shangri La 5.11a, which we did next (the guidebook cover of Northern California Road Trip!) |
Rappelling down the slab |
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Starting up Shangri La |
Soo much fun |
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This 5.10d was ridiculously hard at the second bolt... |
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Small stream crossing :) |
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