Smith Rock 2006
August 17-18, 2006

After finishing work in California for the summer, Dow joined me and we both drove back to Calgary together. On the way, we stopped at Smith Rock, Oregon, for a couple of days of rock climbing. On saturday, we got there late, and did a small two-pitch 5.6 climb to get a feel for the rock. Then we hopped onto Moonshine Dihedral which is a 4-star 5.9 in an area called "the dihedrals". It was a lot of fun, and we both thought on the hard side.

On the next day we got up early and did a 5-pitch route on the Monkey Face, which hosts one of the world's hardest sport routes "Just Do It" (5.14c) and a variety of other 5.13/5.14 routes. There's also a bolt-ladder which allows you to aid your way up the hardest part (A0). We did not bring aid gear with us but the bolts were extremely closely spaced and I just pulled up on quickdraws, reaching up for the next bolts on the way up. Quite quickly it was over with, and after an awkward move to pull into the monkey's mouth (cave), I brought Dow up. The next pitch, called Panic Point, was supposedly the steepest/most exposed 5.7 in North America. Possibly that's true, but it had lots of bolts, and was very short. The climb overall was quite enjoyable! A free-hanging double rope rappel brought us to the ground, and we drove to Washington that day.

  My truck, well-stuffed in a parking lot in Redmond, OR full my new ropes, sweet!  

  unloading Smith Rock Dow leading  

  myself half-way up Moonshine Dihedral, at a rest spot Moonshine Dihedral (5.9) after I made it up there Dow on Moonshine  

  cranking on the top part Stellar view early the next morning. Monkey Face from the approach on Misery Ridge trail  

  Monkey Face again me leading the 5.8 West Face variation, 1st pitch me leading the 5.8 West Face variation, 2nd pitch  

  Dow about to come to Bohs street, where we joined the Pioneer Route myself leading the A0 pitch without aid gear, macho style. Cranking on the A0 pitch, Dow belaying me  

  almost up there... so many bolts! Dow coming up  

  myself in the monkey's mouth  

  summit shot!  

  Misery Ridge trail from the summit of the Monkey Face very wild rappel  

  Dow about to rappel down free-hanging, whohoo! Close to the end of the rap  

  Another view of the face  


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