Day 1 - the Squamish gym

Fast forward to the day of my departure, Sunday (September 7) as I awoke at 4am to catch my airport shuttle. Packing until late, I had only gotten 3.5 hours of sleep, and I was one unhappy dude - little sleep, and I wasn't even going climbing! Well, actually, I guess I was, but not until later. Oh well, I sucked it up and thankfully the shuttle arrived on time. An uneventful flight later (especially because I slept the whole way and remember nothing), Karén met me at the airport with the rental car: a Toyota Yaris which we drove around like a race car and provided plenty entertainment on the trip.

We had lunch in Vancouver by the water in a beautiful café. Basically every time I had been to Vancouver, it rained, or at least the sky was dark grey. In fact, for the 2 weeks prior to our trip, it basically did not stop raining in Squamish (or all of Western Canada for that matter, putting almost all climbing areas out of condition). But somehow, we had gotten lucky, the sky was blue, and the long term forecast looked amazing. We crossed our fingers and made the short drive to Squamish - compared to our usual drive to Yosemite, it was like going to the coffee shop!

After dumping our stuff in the hotel, we headed to the Smoke Bluffs (the Squamish outdoor climbing gym) to get a taste for the rock. We climbed the 2 pitches of "Mosquito" (5.8) and then toproped "SM Delight" (5.10b), which was a lot of fun. A dinner and beer at the brewery, we were content with the day and collapsed in our hotel.

Day 2 - Snake

Since neither of us had gotten much sleep the previous night, we slept in and were in no rush to get going. After a proper breakfast we decided on "Snake", a 6-pitch 5.9 climb that had max stars in the guidebook. We quickly scrambled up to the base and were roping up when a French couple walked by and asked us "Is this the line for Diedre?". We didn't know what Diedre was at the time, but right at that moment we mutually decided we would not climb it, if there was a line you had to go to. We later found out it's an extremely popular 5.8 for which the guidebook says you must climb it in the rain, or dark, in order to enjoy solitude. Instead, we stuck to climb where we never had to wait for anybody... so along with Snake!

The climb was OK, but all of the cruxes were slab (as well as most of the climbing), and we were hoping to climb cracks in Squamish. I did spend a while on one of the 5.9 cruxes, and found it very thought-inspiring, but figured it out after a brief pause. Karén led the next pitch which had the 5.9 traverse, also slabby and a bit wet. Overall it was fun, but I wouldn't give it more than a couple of stars - to each their own.

Day 3 - Sunblessed/Exasperator

We slept in again, and decided to check out the Solarium crag on the back of the Chief. The approach is listed as 1 hour, but we took one wrong turn which cost us about 15-30 minutes of extra time. Overall, the place is a bit tricky to get to, or we suck - either way, we figured it out. To our surprise, there was another party there, and they were rapping off at this time (already 1pm). It was Kevin McLane and Doug Fulford - I had exchanged an email with Kevin the week before and it was quite a coincidence to run into him so randomly! We chatted for a while and reminisced about the Ghost.

Karén quickly headed off the first pitch of Sunblessed, a weird diagonal dyke with 3 bolts, the first of which is quite high. He had no trouble getting to it though (the difficulties didn't come until later), and soon finished the pitch (5.10a). I joined him and looked up at the award-winning 2nd pitch: WOW! It looked so sweet, an impeccable hand crack splitting the upper wall. Not only that, the view of the ocean with a low cloud cover was spectacular. I was excited, yet intimidated. As I started, my concerns went away and I enjoyed the movements immensely. There is a good rest halfway up and I looked back at the Howe Sound, with a thin layer of clouds below us - the atmosphere was surreal. After soaking in the views I finished the pitch, happy not to have had much difficulty. Karén quickly joined me and we decided to do a variation to the 3rd pitch, which is a 5.10c up a corner with some face moves and bolts. It was a great pitch and he did it with little difficulty, putting us on the top where we basked in the sun.

After soaking in the views, we rappelled and ate some food. We contemplated climbing other routes on the wall, but in the end decided to head back down and enjoy something closer.

At the car, it was 6pm and we had some more day light to spare, so we drove to the next parking lot and decided to go check out the Exasperator (5.10a, 5.10c). The approach was supposed to be 5 minutes, but somehow we lost the trail and started thrashing through the forest - we made it, but by far not in 5 minutes... it was getting late. I put every single piece of finger size cam on my harness and headed up the first pitch: perfect finger jams with some less than perfect feet. Not willing to commit, I hung on gear a couple of times, but made it to the first anchor - it wasn't hard though and next time, I promised myself to do it in better style. Karén joined me but the sun was already behind the mountain and it was getting dark quickly, so we rapped off from there - the next .10c section looked thin and much harder.

By the time we were ready to have dinner it was past 9pm and many places were closed - we ended up at Boston's pizza and I had a gigantic pasta meal. I finished it without much thought, although the waitress commented that "few people finish this meal". We needed the energy for the following day.

Day 4 - Tim Hortons, Angel's Crest, Sushi Sen

We did not plan it as such, but we linked three routes that day: Tim Hortons with a 7am start, Angel's Crest, and Sushi Sen.

Angel's Crest is often recommended as one of the longest climbs in Squamish - 14 pitches - that goes to the top of the Chief at a moderate difficulty (5.10b or 5.10c depending on who you ask). In between the pitches there was some scrambling and walking necessary, as well as one rappel - so we knew we had to get an early start. Well, we got up plenty early, but it was cold (7 degrees C) and the climb is in the shade, so we had to work hard to get the motivation to get going. So we first had a quick breakfast at Tim Hortons before setting off. By the time we were roped up and climbing, it was 9am, so we opted to bypass the first vegetated pitch by climbing a 5.7 tree alternate start that would deposit us at the base of Angel's Crack. Karén led us up the tree in fine style. :)

Angel's Crack looked fairly innocent for the first half, and I started up without a lot of hesitation. Soon I was 10 feet away from the anchor - so close that I could smell it - I placed a small cam at the roof and tried to figure out the moves. I downclimbed/hung on gear a few times and just couldn't figure it out: there was a crimper on the other side but I was afraid to commit to going there. Eventually I committed to the move and was on top - tricky though.

Karén joined me and after a rest he headed up the next pitch: it was rated 5.10b (or .10c) but had 2 bolts protecting the move. Neither of us felt it was that hard though, and this pitch went by quite quickly. From there on, we got into the groove of swapping leads and we were merrily making progress up the wall. Karén made short work of a couple of .10a pitches, I took a beautiful 5.9 that bypassed a nasty looking offwidth, and soon we were on top of Acrophobes! The final pitch to the top of the formation is a Matthes Crest of sorts: easy climbing on top of a very exposed ridge with a gorgeous view.

A few moderate pitches from there, and we were at the base of the upper headwall - two pitches separated us from the top now, a 5.10a/b jam crack, and a 5.8 chimney. I took the 5.10 crack and made quick progress up the first 50 or so feet, feeling good, until I got stuck in a small chimney like feature with my pack - ugh. I then had to pull a roof move, and was totally spent, so I started hanging on gear like a sack of potatoes. Eventually I made it past that section, and enjoyed the perfect jams on the rest of the crack.

Karén then led us up the 5.8 chimney, which I was afraid of from the start - in fact we had planned the sequence of leads in advance so he would be the one doing the chimney. I was scared from it because of an experience a month prior on the Incredible Hulk in the Sierra, where a 5.6 chimney/keyhole squeeze gave me a full body workout I can never forget. However in this case, the fears proved unfound, and the chimney was not so bad after all - Karén quickly scampered up it, and I didn't have much trouble seconding.

Walking along the top of the Chief we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset over the Howe Sound, and we were soon going down the backside tourist trail that led us back to the campground.

What a day!!!

Well, the day wouldn't be complete with a proper dinner, so we headed off in search of delicious goodness. By accident we ran into a sushi place, and we got in it at the last minute (it was now nearing 9pm). They made us an enormous platter of sushi which tasted like the best food I had ever had... climbing all day really makes you appreciate life more.

We walked around Squamish for a bit to let the food settle in our bellies and scoped out the approach for the next morning to our breakfast.

Day 5 - Borderline/Blazing Saddles

We were lazy in the morning and didn't get ready for climbing until noon. We went to the Sheriff's Badge area, and climbed the first two pitches of "Borderline" (5.10b, 5.8) to join "Blazing Saddles" (5.10a, 5.10b). I started up and clipped the first bolt, but had trouble reaching the second. After placing an intermediate alien and wasting my energy, I eventually tugged on it and made my way past that section - Karén confirmed it was tricky, although I should have put more effort into it. From there the pitch went for a total of 50 meters up some dirty 5.8 corners and trees to reach a bolted belay. Karén led the next 5.8 pitch to reach the Terrace, and we were staring up at "Blazing Saddles".

One thing is for sure, "Blazing Saddles" looked very intimidating! Surprisingly, it's not that difficult to get to the roof, although it's pumpy as the wall seems slightly overhung. Karén got there no problem, but figuring out the roof was tricky. Essentially, it was an undercling and then very powerful lieback moves that got you above it, where some more liebacking and thin hands jamming leads to the anchors: pumpy!

Day 6 - winding down

On our last day, we were somewhat tired, but decided to at least make an attempt to get up to the famous Split Pillar. After having read reports about a 50-footer and fierce battles we were pretty intimidated - perhaps because of that, or just our aching bodies after several straight days of climbing, we ended up only doing "The Flake" and "Apron Strings" (5.10b) at the base and rapping off.

In search of more clean cracks and less slabs/liebacks, we went back to the Bluffs, and climbed "The Zip", a very nice 5.10a hand/finger crack.

After that we retreated to our hotel, and the next day we really didn't feel like climbing anymore - so went to MEC in Vancouver, walked around downtown and had lunch, and then finally caught our respective flights. What a phenomenal week!

	Karén leading the first pitch of Mosquito (5.8) in the Smoke Bluffs, in our first hour spent in Squamish		Me leading the second pitch of Mosquito (5.8)

		Mosquito (5.8) on the right with "SM Delight" (5.10b) on the left, which we ran a few laps on	This is Supervalue (5.10c) that we didn't do

	Looking up at Snake (5.9, 7p)	Karén gearing up for Snake	Looking up at the first half of the first pitch

	Me starting up Snake (5.9, 7 pitches)	Higher up on the first pitch of Snake	Focused in the middle of runout 5.7 moves (linking pitch 2)

	Looking down the second and first pitches from the belay	The Howe Sound provides a nice view	The town of Squamish, BC

	Karén doing the final moves to join me		Karén on the next pitch (one move of 5.9)

	Looking up the "traverse pitch" (5.9)	Looking down at another of the 5.9 pitches of Snake - slabby and thought-provoking crux	Mt Garibaldi, which everything in the area is named after

	Karén nearing the crux

	Karén starting the next pitch, which was a bit wet in the middle

	looking down at another slabby section (i swear, we didn't go to Squamish to climb slab!)	The weird 5.9 traverse	Karén walking off

	Squamish, with the Smoke Bluffs in the middle: there are houses there!	Since every hotel and restaurant has Garibaldi in the name, I might as well take many pictures of it	A local explained that this boulder was first done the previous day, at V8 - yikes

	Clearly it rains a lot here - green everywhere!		The Chief, the Squamish landmark

	Waterfall on our hike to the Solarium the next day	Typical view on our 1.5 hour approach, including getting lost

	Karén's expression: where the hell are we supposed to go next?	The clouds made for a surreal feeling	After a short while, we found the trail

		The award-winning second pitch of Sunblessed (5.10a) at the Solarium	Karén staying in balance on the weird first pitch of Sunblessed

	Starting the second pitch of Sunblessed

	Higher up the second pitch	Karén doing the third pitch of another route, 5.10c	Amazing view from the top of the second pitch of Sunblessed, the Solarium

		Karén after the crux

		Do we really have to leave now?	Spectacular view of the ocean and the highway

		Posing..	The weird first pitch dyke

	View of a short climb on our hike out	The backside trail apparently gets 150,000 hikers a year - yikes!	Presumably the opinion of some locals :)

	The Exasperator (5.10a, 5.10c) as the sun is going away (7pm)	Me starting up the Exasperator, intimidated	Had enough at the anchors - from there, thin 5.10c

	By the time we get down from the Exasperator, it's dark	Approaching Angel's Crest	Since it was 9am, we opted to bypass the first vegetated pitch by climbing this "5.7 tree". This is Karén already at the top.

	Starting Angel's Crack (5.10b)	So far so good on Angel's Crack (the crux is at the top!!)	Karén climbing the next pitch, supposed 5.10c or 5.10a?

	Staying focused, following a 5.9/10a finger crack	Some vegetated pitches get us in the forest	Here I am escaping into the jungle

	View of Squamish and Mt Garibaldi	The impressive Zodiac Wall	Another interesting pitch (5.9/10a)

	Karén on another fine pitch	Karén higher up

		Nasty^WImpressive offwidth: 7" to 9" or so (5.10b)	Karén laughing when I told him I'm doing the offwidth

	When I look at it longer, maybe it'll become more appealing?	On the other hand, there is a 5.9 finger crack on the right...	Yeah, I think I'll choose the 5.9 crack instead!

		Karén emerging from the 5.9 jungle, into the hiking jungle

	Here, one must hike along for a few hundred feet	Is this a famous BC mushroom?	How did this get here?

	Karén on the crest (you rappel down the opposite side)		Pausing in the middle of the traverse for more pictures

	Me on the Matthes^WAngel's Crest, Acrophobes pitch		The upper section: if you look closely, you'll see the final 5.10 crack and there is a chimney in the corner

	... but I gotta take some more pics first	Karén on the Whale's Back pitch (5.8)

	looks hard!	The 2nd to last pitch is right above: steep 5.10 jamming!	Karén halfway up the 5.10a/b pitch

	Yes, I put a lot of gear in there :)

		Focused on the top-out	Karén starting up the 5.8 chimney guarding the top

	The pitch begins by crawling through a slot	Me grovelling in the final 5.8 chimney (it actually wasn't so bad)	Me posing

	If I can pose and smile so much, then the chimney must not have been too bad!	The top of Angel's Crest

	Hiking along to the summit	Beautiful sunset over the Howe Sound	Black Tusk?

	Real mountains	The backside trail has a lot of ladders and chains	Happy to be past the crux on the first pitch of Borderline

		High up on the first pitch of Borderline (5.10b)	Karén escaping Bordeline via a 5.8 pitch to the Terrace

	Hmm, vandalized rappel anchor	Another shot of the missing hangers	Looking up Blazing Saddles (5.10a, 5.10b)

	The intimidating second pitch of Blazing Saddles	Me on the first pitch of Blazing Saddles	Close up of the intimidating second pitch

	Karén starts up		The first section actually wasn't as hard as it looked (despite overhung)

	... but as one gets to the roof	it gets very strenuous!	The next day, we made a half-assed attempt to go to the Split Pillar (this is The Flake, 5.10b)

	The Flake was quite the grovel at the beginning, and didn't seem like it gets climbed much		This is me on Apron Strings (5.10b), the most popular start to the Grand Wall

	Higher up Apron Strings	Someone doing The Exasperator as one pitch	Climber on Apron Strings (5.10b), showing how pumpty it is

	Another shot: laybacking the whole way!	Last view of the Chief

	We went back to the Smoke Bluffs for a quick fix, and did "The Zip" - beautiful 5.10a fingers and hand crack	Karén on The Zip

	side view showing the otherwise clean wall	Me leading The Zip

	Last night in Squamish: time to sort out the rack...	A Smart with pimped rims in Vancouver - yeah!