Cooke Book (Daff Dome)
5 pitches, 5.10a
September 20, 2009
Trips page

We did the alternative start, which wasn't that great. Don't get suckered into going to the top of the corner, the correct way is to belay down 15 feet and go directly up from there. I wonder if the best way to start it is to climb the first pitch of Bombs Over Tokyo (5.10c amazing fingers) and rappel off the bolts there to the start of the 2nd pitch of Cooke Book? Looked like it should work.

The crux pitch is really nice, the 5.10a is a bit tricky but well protected, and the following 5.9 crack is great.

Before driving home, we went to Harlequin Dome and toproped Chinese Handcuffs, a cool 50' 5.10d roof/finger crack.

  Karen starting up the alternate start of Cooke Book This start turned out to be runout & scary Karen nearing the top of the 2nd pitch of Cooke Book (alternate higher belay)  
  Karen starting up the alternate start of Cooke Book This start turned out to be runout & scary Karen nearing the top of the 2nd pitch of Cooke Book (alternate higher belay)

  Decided to belay under the crux for a closer belay  
  Decided to belay under the crux for a closer belay

  Karen belaying under the crux Figuring out the crux moves After the crux, the climbing eases off to a beautiful 5.8/5.9 crack  
  Karen belaying under the crux Figuring out the crux moves After the crux, the climbing eases off to a beautiful 5.8/5.9 crack

  The impressive SW Face of Conness Pretty  
  The impressive SW Face of Conness Pretty

  Toprope on Chinese Handcuffs, 5.10d  
  Toprope on Chinese Handcuffs, 5.10d

  Tenaya Lake View of Harlequin Dome, home of Hoodwink and some other climbs  
  Tenaya Lake View of Harlequin Dome, home of Hoodwink and some other climbs

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