Whiteman Falls
95m IV, WI 6
April 1, 2009
Peter Valchev, Hedd-wyn Williams
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Hedd-wyn and I did Whiteman Falls together in 2007 - I did the first pitch, and he did the second (grade 6). I always wanted to return and lead the upper pitch and now was the day. We actually intended to go to Waterton, and that's why he showed up to pick me up at 5:30am. However, they had just updated the avalanche bulletin the night before, and I checked it in the morning - 3 feet of fresh snow, with considerable/high danger all around. We weren't sure how threatened the climbs are, and given the long drive from Calgary, we decided on something closer & a safer bet. Since we had 15cm of fresh snow in Kananaskis too, we stopped by Hedd-wyn's house to pick up his skis too - which was a very wise call, because postholing for 5km on the road would have totally sucked.

It was a beautiful day in Kananaskis - sunny, crisp and a bit cold (-10 degC). The temperature was perfect for approaching and the road went by relatively quickly. We left the skis in the trees and headed up through the drainage, soon reaching the approach ice. A couple of short steps of ice (where Hedd-wyn broke the BD pick on his Cobra), more slogging and finally, the climb came into view - wow! It always looks like an impressive ice formation.

After eating, Hedd-wyn negotiated the steep mushrooms and wild features to a large cave on the right of the upper tube. The next pitch was as fun as always - very featured & technical but with great feet and rests, more like 5+ shape. The hollow tube of water is always neat - you can see the stream of water under your picks!

One rap and we were off. We looked at Redman Soars, but the roof to reach the ice looked tricky and we had no rock gear with us anyway. Next time I'd love to give it a go! So we ate some more, and slowly made it out... another beautiful day of climbing in Canada!

  Beautiful morning in Kananaskis. Taken from the parking lot! More views from the parking lot Hedd-wyn is excited to start skiing already!  
  Beautiful morning in Kananaskis. Taken from the parking lot! More views from the parking lot Hedd-wyn is excited to start skiing already!

  Negotiating the road block Oops :-) Hedd-wyn's words as he was laughing: Good thing we are not going all the way to Coleman!  
  Negotiating the road block Oops :-) Hedd-wyn's words as he was laughing: "If I fell here, how am I going to climb a grade 6 waterfall?" - Easily, is the answer Good thing we are not going all the way to Coleman!

  Awake yet? Having skis so we didn't have to posthole was sooo nice  
  Awake yet? Having skis so we didn't have to posthole was sooo nice

  Highway 40 in the winter: no traffic :) Highway 40 is so beautiful in winter It was a cold day, the sunshine was nice  
  Highway 40 in the winter: no traffic :) Highway 40 is so beautiful in winter It was a cold day, the sunshine was nice

  I'm an expert at posing According to Hedd-wyn,  
  I'm an expert at posing According to Hedd-wyn, "With 1200mg Ibuprofen, you can do anything." My shoulder was bugging me a bit from a tree encounter on skis the week before.

  Staging area: switching from skis to boots Walking through the forest after the fresh snow is neat  
  Staging area: switching from skis to boots Walking through the forest after the fresh snow is neat

  Approaching through the forest Nearing the approach ice  
  Approaching through the forest Nearing the approach ice

  Neat bedding planes More neat bedding planes. The leftmost corner is a mixed climb. The first approach step  
  Neat bedding planes More neat bedding planes. The leftmost corner is a mixed climb. The first approach step

  Second approach step Don't fall here. It looked very deep :) Climbing the approach ice  
  Second approach step Don't fall here. It looked very deep :) Climbing the approach ice

  Slogging through fresh snow Hedd-wyn broke a pick on the approach steps, somehow!?  
  Slogging through fresh snow Hedd-wyn broke a pick on the approach steps, somehow!?

  Whiteman Falls comes into view! Impressive piece of ice. Whiteman Falls Whiteman Falls  
  Whiteman Falls comes into view! Impressive piece of ice. Whiteman Falls Whiteman Falls

  Neat how it pours off the amphitheatre The right side of Whiteman Falls Whiteman Falls, right side.  
  Neat how it pours off the amphitheatre The right side of Whiteman Falls Whiteman Falls, right side.

  BD picks... you better be carrying spares 2nd day out for my new tools... the novelty has not worn off Heddwyn starting up the first pitch  
  BD picks... you better be carrying spares 2nd day out for my new tools... the novelty has not worn off Heddwyn starting up the first pitch

  Almost at the belay cave Funky roofs on the first pitch Topping out on the first pitch  
  Almost at the belay cave Funky roofs on the first pitch Topping out on the first pitch

  The start of the 2nd pitch Bomber belay in the cave Looking cozy in the cave  
  The start of the 2nd pitch Bomber belay in the cave Looking cozy in the cave

  Preparing to launch up the crux pitch Starting the 2nd pitch, looking down at Hedd-wyn who appears too comfy! It was quite windy and cold at the belay the top... but I was happy to be there, trust me  
  Preparing to launch up the crux pitch Starting the 2nd pitch, looking down at Hedd-wyn who appears too comfy! It was quite windy and cold at the belay the top... but I was happy to be there, trust me

  Beautiful view from the belay Kananaskis Lakes Hedd-wyn past the difficult climbing  
  Beautiful view from the belay Kananaskis Lakes Hedd-wyn past the difficult climbing

  Trying to keep warm at the top  
  Trying to keep warm at the top

  Redman Soars, 5.10 WI 4+ - will have to do it next time Last shot of Whiteman Falls, before we leave :)  
  Redman Soars, 5.10 WI 4+ - will have to do it next time Last shot of Whiteman Falls, before we leave :)

  Hiking out through the spectacular canyon, with Kananaskis Lakes in the background Antiball plates commercial?  
  Hiking out through the spectacular canyon, with Kananaskis Lakes in the background Antiball plates commercial?

  Ready to slog back to the car? 5km to go. Are we there yet?  
  Ready to slog back to the car? 5km to go. Are we there yet?

  The road! Yes, we're almost there!  
  The road! Yes, we're almost there!

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