Next to Whiteman Falls is a mixed climb called Redman Soars (get it? Barry Blanchard did the first ascent, and he happens to be half Native American). I always wanted to try it and this time we brought a light rock rack. (BTW, I couldn't find a good gear list. Take 1 each of blue TCU to yellow camalot, and a few small nuts, plus two stubbies for the ice. A couple of double TCU's wouldn't hurt either).

Since the real priority was Redman's this time, I started with that. The start is a bit of a heads up with no pro and slopey feet, then it gets better and there is a dubious fixed pin, after which small nuts protect the thin crack. A big loose block provides another heads up before thin rock moves lead to the ice. While those moves are 5.10 / M5+, there are a move or two that are quite insecure, but that depends on the amount of ice I suppose. Once established on the ice, it was plain nice. All in all, an engaging and worthwhile climb! Hedd-wyn enjoyed it as well, having never done it before either. I vividly remember the first time Hedd-wyn took me here - I was a newbie and learned quite a lot!

When we were done, we debated whether to climb Whiteman Falls or not, especially given it was already 2pm or so. But we were already there - it felt like a waste not to! So I tested my hypothesis of being able to do the climb in one long pitch with 70 meter ropes - yup, it's the way to do it! Typically the second pitch is the crux, but this time around the first pitch had the real challenge: about 15-20 feet section of rotten ice with an overhang/mushroom to mantle on top of, quite fun. The second pitch had plastic ice with lots of features, cruiser in comparison.

And then, we got really worked on the slog back to the car. The moon provided light on the endless 5km on the final road...

	Hiking along the road after fresh snow - 5km. Always seems longer than that!		Standing beneath the first ice step on the approach up the canyon

	Looking down the approach gully - a long slog!	Hedd-wyn peaking over the first step of ice on the approach	More fun in the gully. The crux is avoiding the open pools of water under the snow! We fell through a few times...

	Hedd-wyn slogging through knee deep powder	The first view of the climb - almost 3 hours of slogging through the fresh snow!	Whiteman Falls. Always a wild looking climb!

		Whiteman Falls with Redman Soars in the right corner	Hedd-wyn refusing to show his age!

		Almost there	Usually the second pitch is the crux, but today it's the first (middle). A 15 foot section of rotten overhanging ice...

	Beautiful piece of ice!	Redman Soars follows the corner to gain the ice on the left side.	Racking up at the base

	In the corner

		The transition to the ice was very thin and tricky with a big loose block on the left...	Almost at the ice

	Ice, ice baby!		Established on the ice, now it's easy :)

	Hedd-wyn had to move away from the falling ice - another perspective of the climb	The ice is thicker than it looks here	And now onto the fat ice!

			The 20 feet above me were the definite crux (no way around the roof). No action pics as Hedd-wyn was attentative belaying :)

	Whohoo	Working on the "second pitch"	Loving life

		Belaying at the top of the climb with a big grin	The view from the top of Whiteman Falls - awesome

		Hedd-wyn at the top of Whiteman Falls	Goodbye Whiteman Falls, until next time!

	Rappelling down the ice step in the gully	Beautiful moon	We even had time to make a snowman (no, not really)