Yosemite Rock & Tuolumne Ice - January 2012
January 7-8th, 2012
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An amazing January weekend! As many things, there are two ways
to look at the 2 month long drought in California this winter -
abysmal/depressing if you are a skier, or phenomenal conditions
if you like to climb! It's best to adjust and be flexible...
Highway 120 through Tioga Pass / Tuolumne was also open
through
January 17, 2012 this year - unbelievable and a record.
On Saturday we were hoping to climb
Serenity Crack +
Sons of
Yesterday in the valley, but unfortunately there was a party
that was making very slow progress (1.5 hours on the first
pitch...) - and another party in line, etc. Even in January this
climb is crowded!? Sigh. So we climbed Superslide next door,
and had time to do the first couple of pitches of Serenity
afterwards. A nice afternoon in the sun in tshirts!
On Sunday, we went to check out the Drug Dome ice climb -
luckily, that was not crowded! Our alpine start resulted
in starting to climb at 11am (better than noon on Saturday!)
Since the temperatures were
warm and the sun gets on the climb just after noon (this
being a bad thing when on an ice climb in California), we
couldn't dillydally anymore... I tried to try and do the whole
thing in one pitch with the 70 meter ropes, but stopped
just before the top in a nice sheltered spot on the left, as
we would have had to simul climb a little otherwise (total
length is about 90 meters). The
sun came on us just as I was starting our (very short) second
pitch - perfect timing! A couple of quick raps (first from
a tree, then bolts) and we were on the ground, now in warm
sunshine. What's unique about this climb is that a couple
hundred feet to the left is one of the best climbs in Tuolumne,
Oz. It would be cool to link-up both in the same day (I was
thinking of linking the ice with rock on Mariuolumne Dome
but the logistics of carrying rock shoes/rock gear up the climb
did not seem worth it).
Content for the day, we debated whether to do something else,
and eventually decided to do West Country on Stately Pleasure
Dome - fun in the sun in tshirts, what a contrast! Then we
enjoyed a nice sunset at Tenaya Lake, reflecting on how
amazing it is to be in such a beautiful spot in mid-January...
no traffic on the way home rounded up the sweetness!
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January? Unbelievable |
The upper pitches of Superslide, with a couple of girls ahead |
Upper pitches of Superslide |
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Melissa on Superslide |
Higher up Superslide |
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Last pitch |
Last pitch of Superslide |
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First pitch of Serenity Crack. A masacre of piton scars from the "golden age" of Yosemite climbing |
Piton scars FTW |
After getting some gear |
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Higher on the first pitch |
Serenity Crack, first pitch |
First pitch of Serenity |
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Hard to tell, but longer than it looks! |
Starting the second pitch |
In the awesome finger crack on the second pitch |
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My favorite pitch, pure pleasure |
All smiles on the second pitch |
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Finger jams |
Ice in Tuolumne! Drug Dome |
The approach was mostly snow free, but icy |
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Stoked at the base of the climb! |
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I made it to the little cave at the top left (full 70 meters) |
The steep section on the 2nd pitch (only ~10 meters for us) |
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Melissa on our first pitch (full 70 meters) |
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Nearing the top of our first pitch |
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So much fun |
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Topped out - the sun came out to warm us up. Though things immediately start melting.. time to get out of there! |
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Tenaya Lake from Stately Pleasure Dome. Lots of folks skating and playing around! |
Approaching West Country |
On the first pitch of West Country |
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On the first pitch of West Country |
Starting up the greasy 5.7 corner, highlight of the route |
Note the tshirt, and it's January 8th! |
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Liebacking with greasy feet, yay |
Third pitch of West Country (kinda, I went up to some rap anchors instead) |
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Frozen Tenaya Lake is a strange sight... |
Slab magic |
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Slab moves with people skating in the background... |
On the 3rd pitch of West Country |
Slabby fun that Tuolumne is famous for |
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Ice skaters on Tenaya Lake |
Tenaya Peak/Lake |
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Tripod + real camera would have been nice. Nice colors! |
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