Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday
8 pitches, 5.10d
June 21, 2009
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Karen and I made plans to go climbing somewhere for a day, the question was where? As usual this was dictated by weather: it was fairly cold in Tuolumne with a high of 70 degF forecasted for Yosemite Valley. So off to the valley we went! (Usually this time of year it is too hot to climb in the sun!) I actually neglected to take long pants and climbed in shorts and a tshirt, which led to me being chilly at some of the belays (windy day), an enjoyable feeling in retrospect considering we were in the valley!

We were party #4 in line - this is a popular climb! After waiting our turn, I started up the first pitch which consist of painful and slightly insecure jamming in old pin scars. Last year there was a bolt about 30 feet up which was the first solid piece of protection, but the bolt was chopped. I was a bit nervous knowing this, but the climbing isn't that hard and there is a solid green camalot placement very close to where the bolt used to be. It's possible to get some gear below this too (tricams or offset cams would work best?) but it seems better to just focus on the climbing and not waste too much energy finding tricky to place gear placements. After this my feet were in quite a bit of pain but the rest of the pitch is actually a lot of fun. Karen led the 2nd pitch in great style choosing lower traverse option. I had been obsessing about the crux 3rd pitch for a long time and was anxious to try it out. After placing 2 pieces in the crux area I started up but after I got a couple of feet higher, I got nervous and decided to place another small TCU just in case. This wasted a lot of energy and I decided to rest on it instead of risking the fall, a hard decision considering my desire to climb this clean. After resting, I made it up on the next go (I had actually stopped to place the piece after the hardest move, it turned out). It's definitely a tough combination of moves with nearly no feet and I'm not sure what my strategy will be next time in order to do better.

After an easy pitch to a tree, Karen took the next lead: the second (5.10a) pitch of Sons of Yesterday. This was a tough lead consisting of flared off-fingers/thin hands in the crux area with poor foot jams - quite tricky. In return for his pain on this pitch Karen got to lead the beautiful 4th pitch which is a perfect hand crack that goes on for a long time. I had the 3rd pitch which was actually a lot of fun and had a great hand crack on it too, and the 5th pitch which kicked my butt with the final 5.8 OW giving me a decent workout and pain tolerance test.

With that, we were done and we rappelled down - the end of another great day in Yosemite!

  Karen joining me on the first pitch of Serenity, which consists almost entirely of pin scars (5.10a)  
  Karen joining me on the first pitch of Serenity, which consists almost entirely of pin scars (5.10a)

  Karen on the 2nd pitch of Serenity  
  Karen on the 2nd pitch of Serenity

  Starting up the 3rd (crux) pitch of Serenity  
  Starting up the 3rd (crux) pitch of Serenity

  Busy day on Serenity Crack Halfway up the 3rd pitch of Sons of Yesterday A small but fun bulge on the 3rd pitch of Sons  
  Busy day on Serenity Crack Halfway up the 3rd pitch of Sons of Yesterday A small but fun bulge on the 3rd pitch of Sons

   
 

  The start of the beautiful 4th pitch hand crack on Sons Karen on the 4th pitch of Sons  
  The start of the beautiful 4th pitch hand crack on Sons Karen on the 4th pitch of Sons

  The 5th pitch of Sons of Yesterday Looking down Sons of Yesterday and Serenity Crack Me on top of the 5th (and last) pitch of Sons, 5.10a  
  The 5th pitch of Sons of Yesterday Looking down Sons of Yesterday and Serenity Crack Me on top of the 5th (and last) pitch of Sons, 5.10a

  A foreshortened view of the first few pitches of Sons of Yesterday The first pitch of Serenity Crack: horrible pin scars with poor pro for the first 20-30 feet  
  A foreshortened view of the first few pitches of Sons of Yesterday The first pitch of Serenity Crack: horrible pin scars with poor pro for the first 20-30 feet

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