Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday
8 pitches, 5.10d
June 21, 2009
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Last year's photos
Karen and I made plans to go climbing somewhere for a day, the
question was where? As usual this was dictated by weather: it was
fairly cold in Tuolumne with a high of 70 degF forecasted for
Yosemite Valley. So off to the valley we went! (Usually this time
of year it is too hot to climb in the sun!) I actually neglected to
take long pants and climbed in shorts and a tshirt, which led to me
being chilly at some of the belays (windy day), an enjoyable feeling
in retrospect considering we were in the valley!
We were party #4 in line - this is a popular climb! After waiting
our turn, I started up the first pitch which consist of painful and
slightly insecure jamming in old pin scars. Last year there was a
bolt about 30 feet up which was the first solid piece of protection,
but the bolt was chopped. I was a bit nervous knowing this, but the
climbing isn't that hard and there is a solid green camalot
placement very close to where the bolt used to be. It's possible to
get some gear below this too (tricams or offset cams would work
best?) but it seems better to just focus on the climbing and not
waste too much energy finding tricky to place gear placements. After
this my feet were in quite a bit of pain but the rest of the pitch
is actually a lot of fun. Karen led the 2nd pitch in great style
choosing lower traverse option. I had been obsessing about the
crux 3rd pitch for a long time and was anxious to try it out. After
placing 2 pieces in the crux area I started up but after I got a
couple of feet higher, I got nervous and decided to place another
small TCU just in case. This wasted a lot of energy and I decided to
rest on it instead of risking the fall, a hard decision considering
my desire to climb this clean. After resting, I made it up on the
next go (I had actually stopped to place the piece after the hardest
move, it turned out). It's definitely a tough combination of moves
with nearly no feet and I'm not sure what my strategy will be next
time in order to do better.
After an easy pitch to a tree, Karen took the next lead: the second
(5.10a) pitch of Sons of Yesterday. This was a tough lead consisting
of flared off-fingers/thin hands in the crux area with poor foot
jams - quite tricky. In return for his pain on this pitch Karen got
to lead the beautiful 4th pitch which is a perfect hand crack that
goes on for a long time. I had the 3rd pitch which was actually a
lot of fun and had a great hand crack on it too, and the 5th pitch
which kicked my butt with the final 5.8 OW giving me a decent
workout and pain tolerance test.
With that, we were done and we rappelled down - the end of another
great day in Yosemite!
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Karen joining me on the first pitch of Serenity, which consists almost entirely of pin scars (5.10a) |
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Karen on the 2nd pitch of Serenity |
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Starting up the 3rd (crux) pitch of Serenity |
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Busy day on Serenity Crack |
Halfway up the 3rd pitch of Sons of Yesterday |
A small but fun bulge on the 3rd pitch of Sons |
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The start of the beautiful 4th pitch hand crack on Sons |
Karen on the 4th pitch of Sons |
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The 5th pitch of Sons of Yesterday |
Looking down Sons of Yesterday and Serenity Crack |
Me on top of the 5th (and last) pitch of Sons, 5.10a |
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A foreshortened view of the first few pitches of Sons of Yesterday |
The first pitch of Serenity Crack: horrible pin scars with poor pro for the first 20-30 feet |
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